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John Evans
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Oct 31, 2013
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South Jordan, UT
· Joined May 2006
· Points: 150
What is the story behind the weird patch of bolts up and to the north of the Schoolroom rap anchors? Six shiny new bolts in a random pattern maybe 200-300 feet above the Schoolroom raps as you are descending the through the bushes. They were on the very right edge of the gully thing, looking straight down into the Green A. Very odd and unnecessary. Almost like someone was just practicing placing bolts. All six had two link, chain link "hangers". Anyone know what this is about?
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Thaddeus Thiggins
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Oct 31, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 20
Was there a rescue there?
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zoso
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Oct 31, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2007
· Points: 790
6 bolts and you didn't tie in to all of them??!! Yer gonna die!
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ddriver
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Oct 31, 2013
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SLC
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 2,084
hate those damn washer and chain setups, but at least there's SIX of them
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Brian in SLC
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Oct 31, 2013
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Oct 2003
· Points: 21,746
My bet is that there's a corresponding set straight across the canyon (Green A gully). Ugh.
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Meme Guy
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Oct 31, 2013
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Land of Runout Slab
· Joined Sep 2013
· Points: 325
Brian in SLC wrote:My bet is that there's a corresponding set straight across the canyon (Green A gully). Ugh.
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josh holmes
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Oct 31, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 215
Looks like a sweet place to hang a chair. :)
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Dave
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Oct 31, 2013
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Tahoe City
· Joined Mar 2007
· Points: 200
Josh Holmes that was REALLY funny!
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dan zika
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Nov 1, 2013
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jax wy
· Joined May 2009
· Points: 5
bring up a leatherman pull hangers, smash bolts, buy 6 new bolts, create new climb!! Wait do we want to start bolt war with slack liners? Seems thats what they were drilled for! Just asking???
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jonathan knight
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Nov 1, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2006
· Points: 265
Similar to the chair, it looks like they may have used wedge bolts of questionable quality steel. The low budget, chain/stack of washers in place of hangers set ups make me suspicious. Could you tell what grade steel/kind of bolts they were? Unlike the chair, they actually did a decent job with the bolt depths, but somehow I don't think that this constellation represents the optimum set-up for a high line. It looks like amateur hour which is scary. This is on private land that the climbing community has the privilege of using and access is not guaranteed. Low grade, poorly conceived or pointless fixed anchors are not our best interest as guests, especially in the event of a mishap or conflict. If someone can defend this installation, I'd love to hear it. If anyone goes and chops it, do it right; not like what dan zika says above. Score the studs with a hack saw blade allowing a hammer strike or two to break the stud near-flush with the stone. Hopefully, you can then use a punch to countersink the studs facilitating a nice patch job.
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jonathan knight
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Nov 1, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2006
· Points: 265
Even better, thanks John.
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DrApnea
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Nov 2, 2013
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Wenatchee, WA
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 265
That is a high line anchor. The guys that bolted it are on MP. Hopefully they can step up and speak for them self. I don't know them personally but did talk with them as we were headed down after climbing. This was a couple months ago. I don't remember their name, but one did tell me his MP name when I asked because I wanted to see pictures. I didn't think about what they were using for an anchor at the time. I believe they said the other side was above the offwidth on the last pitch of the green A. SO either they will step up and defend it or someone is going to have 12 hangers for a new route.
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Allen Sanderson
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Nov 2, 2013
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On the road to perdition
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 1,203
Before any one gets all worked up there are no hangers to be had. They are pieces of chain. Using chain for anchors is a poor practice that has been shun for many many year now because there are so many better arrangements. If slack liners want to set up areas they need to be smart about it and do it properly - this rig does not appear to pass muster.
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Brian in SLC
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Nov 2, 2013
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Oct 2003
· Points: 21,746
Allen Sanderson wrote:Using chain for anchors is a poor practice that has been shun for many many year now because there are so many better arrangements. Seems like I saw washer stack/chain anchor described in a climbing mag article a number of years back...ha ha. Low profile, discreet location...pretty easy to do in that area.
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Allen Sanderson
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Nov 2, 2013
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On the road to perdition
· Joined Jul 2007
· Points: 1,203
Yeah I was waiting for you to chime in on that reminder of that article I authored. BITD it was acceptable for rap anchors as the choices were limited, However, slack lining puts very different loads on the anchors than rappelling.
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