dmm Torque hex?

-sp wrote: Henry Barber is a gumbie?

No. Eccentric? Probably.

Chris D wrote: No. Eccentric? Probably.

Thank god you didn't say "who?"...

johnL wrote:Improving hex technology is analogous to improving catapult technology in the modern warfront. Yes, you probably can make improvements however it still pales in comparison to the better stuff out there. I can only justify pounding a hex into an ice lined crack. Aside from that, pointless. Drop your cowbells lest I judge thee!

Truth be told, even I've moved on. My new rack is double sets of Lowe-balls and Big-Bro's.

I've been using these for the past few months, probably taken them up ten or so routes. I usually place at least one on a route. I'm glad I bought them, and when they place well, are very confidence inspiring.

just got the red and yellow

should be awesome for icy cracks

I like them. The only complaint that I have is that they're unbelievably loud. The Chouinard hexes I have make more of a thud compared to the loud ring of the DMMs. It's a stupid nitpick, but it really annoys me sometimes.

Dobson wrote:I like them. The only complaint that I have is that they're unbelievably loud. The Chouinard hexes I have make more of a thud compared to the loud ring of the DMMs. It's a stupid nitpick, but it really annoys me sometimes.

Yes, probably due to them being high strength alloy. I tried jamming one into another to shut them up, now ive taken to racking them with the top loop...

Coeus wrote: I haven't carried hexes in 10years and have never felt like I couldn't protect something without them. It also seem to me that most "hard trad climbers" I know don't use hexes, and most of the time I hear the cow bells a-clanging is on "easy" trad routes.

X2. I have never carried a hex and I have never once felt the need to have one, nor have most of my partners. Hexes seem like they have two main functions:

- Substitute/ supplement large cams to save money; and
- Substitute/ supplement large cams to save weight in extreme scenarios (e.g. multi-day approaches).

-sp wrote: Except that cams and Tri-cams don't always work where a hex will.

Could you give an example? Where will a hex fit that a Tricam won't?

Optimistic wrote: Could you give an example? Where will a hex fit that a Tricam won't?

Well, one example would be an icy crack where the camming action of a tricam is compromised. Using a tricam in passive mode is an option, but the surface area of a hex provides a more secure placement, especially when the crack is dirty (i.e. frozen turf, soil, etc...).

Optimistic wrote: Could you give an example? Where will a hex fit that a Tricam won't?

An example from my placements, in the southeastern sandstone I usually climb on, is in a parallel, fairly smooth sided crack. Sometimes a hex will slot in nicely, while a Tricam can't get quite enough purchase to be trustworthy. That said, I place my 4 Tricams about twice and much as my 4 hexes.

WDW4 wrote: An example from my placements, in the southeastern sandstone I usually climb on, is in a parallel, fairly smooth sided crack. Sometimes a hex will slot in nicely, while a Tricam can't get quite enough purchase to be trustworthy. That said, I place my 4 Tricams about twice and much as my 4 hexes.

"trustworthy" meaning that you're worried that the "stinger" (pointy end) will skate?

these are great but..... ridiculously loud! I love em when they are in but if anyone has found a way to sound proof these via tape etc. PM me!

Placing hexes is fun!

Optimistic wrote: "trustworthy" meaning that you're worried that the "stinger" (pointy end) will skate?

Should have been more specific. Yes, the nose/stinger/pointy end does not get enough friction on parallel or outward flared cracks with smoother rock, especially in placements that are closer to the minimum range of that particular tricam. Placements closer to the maximum range bring the angle of intersection between the rock and the nose closer to 90 degrees, increasing friction.

Nodin deSaillan wrote: Well, one example would be an icy crack where the camming action of a tricam is compromised. Using a tricam in passive mode is an option, but the surface area of a hex provides a more secure placement, especially when the crack is dirty (i.e. frozen turf, soil, etc...).

Tricams are great in icy cracks...

"Two other great examples are pockets (slot the tricam in active mode in the much same way you would a horizontal crack, fig. Test C) and icy placements. Because the fulcrum point on a Tricam comes to a virtual point, it bites into softer surfaces more aggressively than the rounded lobes on cams. For this reason Tricams are more suitable in wet or icy cracks. Situate the Tricam so the cam rails are on solid rock, then tug hard enough on the sling while setting the cam to force the fulcrum point into the ice. If it shatters the ice and hits the rock, great. If not, make sure it has been set with enough force to remain embedded in the ice during upward progression (the larger sizes 5, 6 and 7 feature a sharper fulcrum point so these are the best options for these types of placements). Tricams have even been test in cracks formed by a rock wall on one side and waterfall ice on the other (fig. Test A). In a well-formed crack with solid water ice, the ice broke at 11.2 kN! "

-- From CAMP's website

a tricam works in dirty mossy crack ... as long as it doesnt walk out ...

which IMO is the main issue with tricams ... sling em long

;)

bearbreeder wrote:a tricam works in dirty mossy crack ... as long as it doesnt walk out ... which IMO is the main issue with tricams ... sling em long ;)

I have to disagree with that. If you set a tricam it does not walk. Much less likely to walk than an SLCD that only has spring tension against rock unless loaded.

Same article...

" What the Tricam does offer in this situation that traditional cams do not is the ability to be set and a tendency to remain in place rather than walking. Tugging on a Tricam when placed in active mode often has the same kind of locking effect as tugging a nut. As the fulcrum point bites into the rock, the cam rails lodge themselves against the opposing sidewall creating enough friction to keep the cam in place even with some rope drag. Being able to set the Tricams in active mode is one of the primary reasons they are far more likely to hold in slightly flaring placements that traditional cams. With just the strength of the springs to hold the cam in place, traditional cams will walk out of flared placements as easily as they walk into others. Additionally, because there is not a stiff stem, the head of a Tricam is less affected by rope drag since the sling tends to handle the motion independently of the head. This is the other main reason Tricams are less likely to walk … a welcome feature when running it out on alpine terrain."

bearbreeder wrote:a tricam works in dirty mossy crack ... as long as it doesnt walk out ... which IMO is the main issue with tricams ... sling em long ;)

Never had a tricam move after placing it...

Yeah so how bout them Torque Nuts?