Blog post about ARCing

I recently contributed to this blog post about ARC training for climbing. Read up for my thoughts on its effectiveness and applications.

Hey Brendan, nice post.

Question: if I am training for sport routes that are typically 15-25 degrees overhanging AND all I can ARC on is 10 degree walls (anything steeper and I just cant climb without pumping off after 5-10 minutes)...would it be possible to take weight off with a LONG pulley system set up on the top of the wall (with a long thread of 7mm cord for instance).

I ARC currently on my 10 degree wall but it feels a little unspecific for the type of climbing I am most into and want to improve on.

I was thinking if I took like 15-20lb off I could ARC on the 35 degree wall I have at home...and then I could progressively take weight off as I slowly improve.

Just a weird thought I've never heard about.

peace!

It takes a while to get the right intensity, but ARC is extremely effective for increasing capillirization and aerobic endurance.

Once you have a decent base of Aerobic endurnace and can stay on the wall for 20 minutes at a time easily, one good progression is instead of using poorer holds, use the same good holds but start doing harder moves between them.

By keeping the intensity low in the arms(big, nice holds) but doing bigger and more open movements, you can train strength in the body while keeping things aerobic in the forearms. This way you can still train core strength/body tension and yes its even possible to train lock off and dynamic power this way.

In addition, these moves will be harder and closer or even identical to the moves you will do on climbs at your limit so when you are doing the real climb your body will be ready, the only difference is smaller holds.

5.samadhi wrote:...would it be possible to take weight off with a LONG pulley system set up on the top of the wall. . . I was thinking if I took like 15-20lb off I could ARC on the 35 degree wall I have at home...and then I could progressively take weight off as I slowly improve.

thanks brendan...you're probably right I just need to get creative with my rests. My personal best for nonstop continous climbing on this wall is 4 minutes 30 seconds but thats with no shake outs and continous climbing. So I probably can go way longer if I find creative rests.

You mention that you prefer 2 sets compared to one long set. Is there any reason behind that? What would be the difference in 3x10 minutes and 1x30 minutes physiologically?

5.samadhi wrote:You mention that you prefer 2 sets compared to one long set. Is there any reason behind that? What would be the difference in 3x10 minutes and 1x30 minutes physiologically?

thanks Brendan. Be well :)