Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in i. High E
|
50-50 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Alpine Diversions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Ants' Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Beyond Good and Evil T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Bonnie's Roof T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Bonnie’s a Knockout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Cool Hand Dukes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Directissima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Directississima (aka Doubleissima) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Enduro Man's Longest Hangout T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Ent Line T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
First Trapps Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Groovy T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
High Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
In The Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
In the Silly T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
|
Insuhlation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Knockout Drops T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Lakatakissima T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Lichen Forty Winks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Missing, But Not Lost T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Nose Drops T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Obstacle Delusion T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Psychedelic (pitches 2 & 3 only) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Ridicullissima T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Silly Chimney T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
|
|
Sleepwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Space Invaders T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Teeny Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Third Trapps Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
|
|
Throne, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Ursula T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Art Gran, Al DeMaria & Jim Mays 1963 |
| Page Views: | 5,765 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | SethG on Jun 9, 2010 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Ascending an appealing natural line, In The Groove climbs an obvious corner with nice moves on the easy side of 5.6, and is a good warm-up for other nearby climbs.
P1: Start up the corner, using the crack and face holds on the left to advance. At the roof about 15-20 feet up step left and continue following the corner upwards. There is a crux bulge, but in my opinion all of the climbing is pretty straightforward 5.6 or easier, and is well-protected. As you get higher there are numerous left-facing flakes in the corner that provide good holds. At about the 80 foot level, there is a dirt ledge at which you can build an optional gear belay-- I did not; I finished the climb as a single pitch.
Original P2: A shorter, easier pitch. After a few more moves upward, the rock to the right eases off to a stairway of blocks up which it is easy to climb to a large oak tree with a rap station. Dick Williams describes this as a dying oak tree in his 2004 guide but as of June 2010 it seemed to me to be very much alive and thriving (but see comment below; as of 2013, not so alive). From here, a single 60 meter rope rap just makes it to the ground.
Direct finish: Williams describes a new direct finish in his 2004 guide, which climbs straight up from the end of pitch 1 to a small roof (crux), after which one climbs straight to the top.
I explored up to the roof, found the hold just under the roof to be a bit less of a jug than I expected, and then couldn't tell where to go. There is a lot of lichen over the roof and it seemed unclear to me whether to go left or right; there were no obvious holds I could see. It did not appear this variation had seen a ton of traffic. The tree at the top is higher than the traditional finish, so you will likely need two ropes to rap, or you can walk a short distance to the Ursula rap station, which will get you down with a single rope in two raps.
P1: Start up the corner, using the crack and face holds on the left to advance. At the roof about 15-20 feet up step left and continue following the corner upwards. There is a crux bulge, but in my opinion all of the climbing is pretty straightforward 5.6 or easier, and is well-protected. As you get higher there are numerous left-facing flakes in the corner that provide good holds. At about the 80 foot level, there is a dirt ledge at which you can build an optional gear belay-- I did not; I finished the climb as a single pitch.
Original P2: A shorter, easier pitch. After a few more moves upward, the rock to the right eases off to a stairway of blocks up which it is easy to climb to a large oak tree with a rap station. Dick Williams describes this as a dying oak tree in his 2004 guide but as of June 2010 it seemed to me to be very much alive and thriving (but see comment below; as of 2013, not so alive). From here, a single 60 meter rope rap just makes it to the ground.
Direct finish: Williams describes a new direct finish in his 2004 guide, which climbs straight up from the end of pitch 1 to a small roof (crux), after which one climbs straight to the top.
I explored up to the roof, found the hold just under the roof to be a bit less of a jug than I expected, and then couldn't tell where to go. There is a lot of lichen over the roof and it seemed unclear to me whether to go left or right; there were no obvious holds I could see. It did not appear this variation had seen a ton of traffic. The tree at the top is higher than the traditional finish, so you will likely need two ropes to rap, or you can walk a short distance to the Ursula rap station, which will get you down with a single rope in two raps.
Location
About 45 feet to the right and uphill from Groovy, at the obvious clean, left-facing corner with a roof above at 15-20 feet and numerous left-facing flakes above that.
8 Comments