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Snuggles to Fall Crack
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.9 from 50
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Routes in East Face
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Max's Mayhem T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Parking Lot Corners T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Plus Four Crack, The T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Snuggles to Fall Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Snuggles FA: Mike Dudley & Claudia Pinello ('60s) - Fall Crack FA: Steve Cheyney ('60s) |
| Page Views: | 5,929 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Aug 10, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal nesting closures
Details
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This route is located on the east face of the south end of North Gateway Rock. Scramble 40 feet up steps and large holds to a large ledge below an obtuse, right-facing corner with a couple pins (Snuggles). Most parties rope up here.
Snuggles: Climb the nice hand crack that arches out right towards its top past a couple pins to a large ledge with two pins. Gear from 3/4" to 2". (5.8 - 50 feet).
Fall Crack: Continue up the off-width off the left side of the ledge for about 10 feet to a piton on the right wall. (An old #4.5 Camalot might be useful here, depending on your off-width skills. I used an old #4 Camalot to protect the moves off the ledge, but it was fairly tipped out and useless). Continue with another 10 feet of wide/squeeze climbing, make an airy move out of the wideness, then continue up easier ground to a 2-pin anchor with rap rings.
This is a nice climb with good exposure and a nice belay station. Many parties also climb the left facing corner off the right side of the ledge above Snuggles (5.9+?). My length estimates are approximate, so don't assume you can use one rope and rappel from the top of Fall Crack to the anchor on Snuggles. If you do this, at least make sure you're using a 60m rope, and bring webbbing and rap rings to leave on Snuggles, which is worth top-roping. I recommend just climbing Snuggles and Fall Crack as one nice pitch, and use 2-ropes to descend. If this climb hasn't been done recently, it will be sandy, especially after some rain, but what Garden climb isn't? My FA info was taken from Bob D's guide.
Snuggles: Climb the nice hand crack that arches out right towards its top past a couple pins to a large ledge with two pins. Gear from 3/4" to 2". (5.8 - 50 feet).
Fall Crack: Continue up the off-width off the left side of the ledge for about 10 feet to a piton on the right wall. (An old #4.5 Camalot might be useful here, depending on your off-width skills. I used an old #4 Camalot to protect the moves off the ledge, but it was fairly tipped out and useless). Continue with another 10 feet of wide/squeeze climbing, make an airy move out of the wideness, then continue up easier ground to a 2-pin anchor with rap rings.
This is a nice climb with good exposure and a nice belay station. Many parties also climb the left facing corner off the right side of the ledge above Snuggles (5.9+?). My length estimates are approximate, so don't assume you can use one rope and rappel from the top of Fall Crack to the anchor on Snuggles. If you do this, at least make sure you're using a 60m rope, and bring webbbing and rap rings to leave on Snuggles, which is worth top-roping. I recommend just climbing Snuggles and Fall Crack as one nice pitch, and use 2-ropes to descend. If this climb hasn't been done recently, it will be sandy, especially after some rain, but what Garden climb isn't? My FA info was taken from Bob D's guide.
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