Petzl Fifi hook for haul bag retrieval
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The topic of discussion of this thread is the Petzl Fifi hook. |
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Good topic, I'd like to know from someone with personal experience too. You should change the title to fifi for haul bag retrieval or something to let the other big wallers know. |
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Hudon knows about this. On supertopo. Search it. |
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I think the only practical use in this situation is if you wanna haul simultaneously while you rap back down the pitch (2 separate ropes of course). Otherwise, I don't think there's any point? |
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Which is super handy. But not without attendant risk. |
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Yes, you can hang your bags from any bolt, pin, nut or sling (the best option for reasons I'll explain later but I'm way tired right now after a week of climbing and hiking (18 miles over three days) to write too much in depth about it) and pull it off, cleanly, easily and safely. |
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Check out this link and see if the video helps at all |
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I had two piglets hanging on two of these hooks [with maillon rapides through the top] which "rode up for free" as I rappelled down after solo leading a pitch. |
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Any reason I shouldn't use any old fifi? I have an old steel fifi that a quick link fits through the hole normally used for a retrieval string. I have hauled a few pitches using this standard fifi with quick link and it worked nice, but curious why Petzl chose to make a long slot rather than just a single hole up top where it will pull the hook up and off the anchor? |
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Okay, so there I am on Zenyatta Mondatta, soloing and on the crux pitch. The pitch starts off with 15 or so hook moves about 10 or 15 feet horizontally from the anchor and then starts to rise up at about a 45 degree angle. I'm about 20 feet from the anchor when the weight of my rope starts to pull the rest of the rope out of its rope bag. I'm sitting there on a hook with no chance in hell to get back to the anchor before the full weight of the falling rope pulls the slippery knot through and falls onto the Petzl Fifi holding the whole rig onto the anchor. With any other fifi, the force of the rope's weight would have hit the TOP of the fifi and would have nicely rotated the hook off the anchor, causing my tag bag to fall the length of the rope and ripping me off the rock. With the Petzl Fifi, the full force of the falling rope came onto the fifi at the BOTTOM of the hook. |
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Didn't think about that scenario. Thanks. I will have to switch it out when I get a chance. |
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Thanks for this topic Justin. |
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Wes, I'm in Zion climbing right now and don't have the photo showing why I had trouble pulling the hook off the anchor. Essentially, the bag was below a 25 foot flat roof so the line was pulling horizontally out on the hook, not up at all. The mallion slid only half way up the slot in the hook. |
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Check MPs new Section "School of Rock" its a fantastic primer on all-things-climbing. |
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Thanks Mark. Have a great time in Zion. |
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FoamFinger wrote:Check MPs new Section "School of Rock" its a fantastic primer on all-things-climbing. mountainproject.com/v/bagga…Why would he check out an article that has absolutely nothing to do with his specific question? In my teaching days, I used to say, "if you only pay attention to 80% of the question/assignment/explanation, you'll respond with less understanding than if you didn't listen at all." Don't get me wrong, it's a great article, but you're asking Wes to do more work with no benefit to him. With Mark's scenario of the long roof, the best fix would be fix the tag bag into a different spot (done because you have knowledge of the problem now). If referring to haul bags at the anchor then you simply don't do the haulbag-hook anchor trick in that instance. It's important to remember that this technique is a time-saving trick and doesn't NEED to be done on every pitch since the time saved by rap-hauling the bag is only about 20 minutes. If the trick takes more time than that to fix, then it's no longer a truck and has become a hindrance. Just another instance of how bigwall techniques are case-by-case always and there's nothing that works the best every single time. |
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Thanks Kevin. Yeah I read the stuff on the link and while very informative I think most of the tips are geared towards a level of climbing that this technique is not at. Thanks again FF. So in your opinion, Kevin, tagging gear or hauling while rapping in this case would be a no go due to the extreme traversing nature of the pitch. That makes sense, but I wonder if there are any ways to make it work and if it would be worth it. |
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You don't rap the lead line back to your bags. You rap the haul line bag to your bags normally. In the case of rap-hauling, you rap a third line (not the lead or the haul line) back to the bags while the lead line is fixed and waiting, and the haul line is bringing up the bags as you rap. |
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Good post, Kevin. |
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Obviously this is all big wall solo trickery. I've you'd this technique successfully and decided to use a Pika #3 Ibis hook for it's strength and hook depth. I just girth hitched the prusik cord over the top of the hook. It's a good time saver, but I like to incorporate the haul bag into the solo anchor as a counter weight to a fall and you can't really do both. |
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OK. Good info. |