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best inexpensive beginner shoe?

Original Post
jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882

Looking to get some shoes for a school program for kids. Money is scarce. They are old enough to take adult sizes. I'd like to get the most durable shoes. Some of the kids also climb pretty hard and do a lot of bouldering so it would be good if the shoes climbed well. Velcro entry would also be good but not necessary.

Any recommendations?

Thanks!

Jim

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

i've got no experience with them, but i suggest Evolv Royals, they've got extra thick rubber and rands and aren't very expensive.

- Edit - I might be wrong on those, i'm sure someone will correct me if i am. The evolv website doesn't say much about them, but i thought they were used as rental shoes.

divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90

I got two pairs of shoes (Pontas and five ten something lace-up), I can send them to you if you don't mind them being used and a little smelly.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

MadRock usually has last year's model shoes for cheap on their website. Frenzy or Flash are decent shoes if they have your size.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349

A proven good ALL AROUND (beginner) shoe is Five Ten "Spires". Plus they have the added benefit of already have C4 on them.

Why have beginners slipping and sliding away with for shit rubber when you don't have to?

;-)

Kyro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 5

La sportiva tarantulas are a pretty good starter shoe

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

I think the Evolv Defy is a nice balance of performance, simplicity, and cost. I've climbed hard (for some definitions of hard) in them, and they are WAY better than either the equivalent Mad Rocks or the Evolv Rental Shoe (Un)Spectacular. You can usually find the Defy's on sale for ~$60. Or you could see if they'll cut you a deal because it's a youth program. Or you could try to find your local Evolv rep and buy some old demo shoes.

Robbie Mackley · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2010 · Points: 85

+ 1 on the defys.

Will Copeland · · Driggs · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 25

All of the shoes mentioned above are great suggestions. I bought a pair of La Sportiva Nagos recently and they have been treating me very nicely on vertical and less than vertical routes.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"I liked evolv's defy model. I thought they were comfortable, performed very well, and lasted a long time. However, the stink was unbelievable"

VERY common for Evolv shoes.

I refer to it as the "Vomit factor" and no other shoe company has it as bad.
Robbie Mackley · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2010 · Points: 85

It's true. Mine were rank. I thought it was just me though. Nice to know others had the same problem.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

ive never had much problem with the hyped evolve stinkiness

i air out the shoes when im not climbing, and spray lysol into them right after ...

some of our gyms here use evolves for rentals and they do the same just fine

one thing to note about the sportivas is that they have a delamination problem .... if you get a nago/miura/katana theres a good chance the rubber will peel from the toe before its worn out ... and its not a "footwork" isssue

for mass climbing by newbies i would get something with
- laces as its easier to adjust for different people
- a thick rand and sole
- rounded toes as those are less probe to getting holes right at the big toes that you see with more aggressive shoes
- CHEAP

;)

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

If you're truly short on cash, check area gyms for used rental shoes. The gym I worked for used to sell them off every season for between $15-30 per pair, at varying levels of wear of course. You might even be able to score donations by setting up a used-shoe drive.

As far as new shoes go, everyone here has made great recommendations.

Evolvs are workhorse shoes in general, and they have models specifically designed for rental use (extra thick rubber, similar fit to defys). The Evolv stank can be managed with regular disinfectant treatment (Lysol, Zepynamic, etc), air-drying, and semi-regular washing.

Also, check here for their closeout sales. You can get some pretty decent shoes for 25$ a pair while they last.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"one thing to note about the sportivas is that they have a delamination problem .... if you get a nago/miura/katana theres a good chance the rubber will peel from the toe before its worn out ... and its not a "footwork" issue"

They are #1 in delamination's and have been for many years.
jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882

Thanks for the tips, guys. Seems like there are a bunch of options.

Jim

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
Locker wrote:A proven good ALL AROUND (beginner) shoe is Five Ten "Spires". Plus they have the added benefit of already have C4 on them. Why have beginners slipping and sliding away with for shit rubber when you don't have to? ;-)
+1 on the Spires,,are they still an all leather shoe? Mine have stretched out a few extra sizes, so be prepared to wear socks in them after they start to 'grow' on you.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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