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The Last Dihedral
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.1 from 17
votes
Routes in Dome Rock
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fruit at The Bottom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Raisins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Saucer Full of Secrets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Save the Wails S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,261 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Aug 20, 2008 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Layback, undercling and face climb up the massive, right-facing dihedral for two pitches. While the massive dihedral looks breath-taking from a distance, all should be warned that various parts of the route contain massive, detached flakes or moss-choked cracks. Placing solid gear is impossible for large stretches of the easier portions of the route.
The physical crux of the route is climbing past positive edges on the first 10 feet of the route. After gaining the main dihedral, the route is mostly 5.4 with sections of 5.7. As alluded to, the psychological crux is climbing with non-existent or completely sketchy protection through several sections of the route.
Once atop the dihedral, on a large ledge, step left and either climb a crack up the headwall or rappel with 2 ropes from a tree. If continuing, belay from gear at a small, uncomfortable stance atop the next pitch. One pitch of easy, runout slab climbing leads to the top of the Dome.
The physical crux of the route is climbing past positive edges on the first 10 feet of the route. After gaining the main dihedral, the route is mostly 5.4 with sections of 5.7. As alluded to, the psychological crux is climbing with non-existent or completely sketchy protection through several sections of the route.
Once atop the dihedral, on a large ledge, step left and either climb a crack up the headwall or rappel with 2 ropes from a tree. If continuing, belay from gear at a small, uncomfortable stance atop the next pitch. One pitch of easy, runout slab climbing leads to the top of the Dome.
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