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Wildest Dreams
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.7 from 26 votes
Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Chris Hensen, et al '06 |
Page Views: | 5,942 total · 32/month |
Shared By: | Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
P1 (5.10): Start as for Golden Road or climb the flake more easily from the left. 6 or so bolts lead up a face to the right of Golden Road to a left facing corner (9+). Stem and jam the corner past thin gear (10+) at the top to a belay anchor on a ledge on the right.
P2 (5.11): A flake goes up left to a fin/shallow corner. Use some small cams and nuts between bolts 1 and 2. After about 4-5 more bolts, the fin ends and you face a thin seam/face-climbing crux. A few more face moves (protected by medium-sized gear) lead to a 5.10 mantel and comfy belay ledge.
P3 (5.12a or A1): Two bolts protect the beginning of a right-leaning, thin fingers/fingertip crack. Tiny cams (0,00 TCU, 0 C3, black and blue aliens) to finger size pieces protect the rest. At only 40 feet, this pitch is certainly sustained at the grade. Belay on a large ledge that forms part of the descent and traverse pitches on the original Davis-Holland route.
If aiding it's probably easy to just French-free the crux.
P4 (5.10): Two bolts protect face moves that lead to sustained, thought-provoking climbing in discontinuous cracks. The pitch is nearly 35 m, so if you want to lower off the chains or rap, make sure you have a 70-m rope (or a second rope).
A short face traverse and 4th-class climbing leads up to the top of the wall where you can quickly get to the trail.
P2 (5.11): A flake goes up left to a fin/shallow corner. Use some small cams and nuts between bolts 1 and 2. After about 4-5 more bolts, the fin ends and you face a thin seam/face-climbing crux. A few more face moves (protected by medium-sized gear) lead to a 5.10 mantel and comfy belay ledge.
P3 (5.12a or A1): Two bolts protect the beginning of a right-leaning, thin fingers/fingertip crack. Tiny cams (0,00 TCU, 0 C3, black and blue aliens) to finger size pieces protect the rest. At only 40 feet, this pitch is certainly sustained at the grade. Belay on a large ledge that forms part of the descent and traverse pitches on the original Davis-Holland route.
If aiding it's probably easy to just French-free the crux.
P4 (5.10): Two bolts protect face moves that lead to sustained, thought-provoking climbing in discontinuous cracks. The pitch is nearly 35 m, so if you want to lower off the chains or rap, make sure you have a 70-m rope (or a second rope).
A short face traverse and 4th-class climbing leads up to the top of the wall where you can quickly get to the trail.
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