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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow
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10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Are We There Yet? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Boron Destroyer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Casa de mi Padre T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Casa Emilio T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Circumcisor T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fancy Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Goombahs in the Mist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hawaii Five-Ten T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headless Horseman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Numbers Racket, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Second Breakfast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shock and Awe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Shock Therapy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Slime World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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V.D. T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Worp Factor 1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Bonnie Prudden, Norton Smithe, 1953 |
| Page Views: | 9,075 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Feb 27, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
One of the better 5.4s in the Gunks; a long approach and undistinguished first pitch keep the crowds away.
This climb is at the far end of the Trapps, almost at the S-turn in the carriage road, about a 25-min. walk from the Uberfall.
Look for a buttress just to the right of the broken area that marks Roger's Escape Hatch. Scramble up to the right of this buttress, following the yellow blazes, to the true base of the cliff, and then up a steep hill behind it, to a large ledge that is covered in pine needles, and has a huge right facing corner at the end. Leave your bags here, and scramble up and left to the top of the buttress, which is where the first pitch starts.
P1: Starting at the top of the buttress, step across the gap and climb easily up somewhat vegetated slabs aiming for a ledge with a few trees on it. From there, traverse right along a ledge, and then take the path of least resistance to another ledge with a huge tree on it, and a bolted belay/rap station. 5.0, 100'.
Alternatively, climb the first pitch of Casa De Mi Padre to the bolted anchors, which is 5.6, and around 80 feet long.
P2: Climb straight up clean, aesthetic white rock to the top and another bolted belay/rap station. 5.4, 100'. There are some hollow flakes on the upper portion of this pitch.
Descent: top of both P1 and P2 have bolted anchors. Alternatively, top out and descend Rodger’s Escape Hatch. If you decide to do this, you may want to consider leaving your bags at the base of Almost Pure and Simple, so that you won’t have to scramble to the base of the climb again.
Photos
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