Type: Sport, 34 ft (10 m)
FA: Sept 29, 2013
Page Views: 2,427 total · 19/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 30, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Kind of a mini version of Venus on a Halfshell. Fun climbing; I just wish it kept going and was in a more accessible location.
Climb out on the juggy rail and clip your first bolt then throw your right foot up and press into a long reach for a crimpy flake (take care not to rip it off, please) Clip again and continue into a crimpy sequence that gets you to good holds where you can now move left and get a shake. Up high and left gets you to the start of a series of cool pockets angling back right that ends with a pop with bad feet to the anchor clipping jug.

Great for getting away from the crowds. Short but engaging.

Location Suggest change

Above, almost at the very top of the steep gully between Cozened Stone and Very Nice Crack, on the left wall.  If you come directly up the gully, once you have scrambled past the initial overlap and gotten situated, angle  toward the right wall, up and then angle slowly back towards the left, Trying to charge straight up will get you into a thin layer of loose debris on a slick slab. The very nice 'Lectra Crack (which is actually nicer than Very Nice Crack) with one bolt at its start, is just left of this route. 

Alternatively, if you are already in the vicinity of the Asylum, walk to the very left side of that crag and you will find a goat path that will drop you into the gully half way up. Take care if you come from the Asylum, as it is a little exposed at one point and you are above the Prudential. See Lee's map that shows another way in from the left too. map

This is definitely not a spot tp bring your dog or small child. The dog will tear things up and make it loose and your child may die.

Protection Suggest change

4 fat galvanized glue-in bolts, clippie anchors.

Photos

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