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Rogue Planet
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Clay Mansfield, Geir Hundal, 2013 |
Page Views: | 2,905 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Clay Mansfield on Oct 17, 2013 |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Rogue Planet is a visually striking, direct shot up the NW buttress of Aegir. Plenty of high quality, in-your-face climbing up great features.
The start is fairly obvious: just left of Direct Madness, a large flake forms a fat crack with a dihedral above. EFR checked out this system years ago, and eventually came down, as he wasnt looking to aid through anything. Geir and I launched up the first pitch in early September, and placed 3 aid bolts on lead (later freed) through the 1st pitch crux.
P1: Easy face climbing past one bolt brings you to the jumbo flake. Some liebacking and chimneying spits you out at the base of the dihedral/arête. The pitchs crux looms above and involves difficult edging up the arête past 3 bolts. This section has been done a couple of ways and both are similar in difficulty. Beyond the third bolt, a mini toilet-bowl flake leads to some lie back moves and a moderate run to the anchors. The hard climbing isnt sustained, but it is really good and this pitch is pretty varied. 5.12b, 100 ft. 2 bolt anchor with biners.
P2: A relentless, beautiful pitch stretching to the top of Aegir. Past the 2nd bolt, make sure your shoulders and washboard abs are warmed up for a powerful low crux. A couple of small pieces and a marginal rest lead to more stiff climbing: edging and side-pulling up an island of climbable features, with blank real estate on either side. The huge horizontal weakness that slices the NW face offers not only a good rest, but also ample time to think about lobbing off in the last 80 feet of terrain. Some small but bombproof gear permits safe passage through a semi-insecure section, and then 4 bolts guide you up to and over the final battle: an outrageous, intimidating roof guarding the anchor. This last section could prove to be a heartbreaker. A finger or medium-sized cam can be placed before the anchor if desired. 5.12c, 130 ft. 2 bolt anchor.
Route can be descended to the ground by rapping the route with a 70 m rope. The first rap down to the 1st pitch anchors is close, so pay attention.
The start is fairly obvious: just left of Direct Madness, a large flake forms a fat crack with a dihedral above. EFR checked out this system years ago, and eventually came down, as he wasnt looking to aid through anything. Geir and I launched up the first pitch in early September, and placed 3 aid bolts on lead (later freed) through the 1st pitch crux.
P1: Easy face climbing past one bolt brings you to the jumbo flake. Some liebacking and chimneying spits you out at the base of the dihedral/arête. The pitchs crux looms above and involves difficult edging up the arête past 3 bolts. This section has been done a couple of ways and both are similar in difficulty. Beyond the third bolt, a mini toilet-bowl flake leads to some lie back moves and a moderate run to the anchors. The hard climbing isnt sustained, but it is really good and this pitch is pretty varied. 5.12b, 100 ft. 2 bolt anchor with biners.
P2: A relentless, beautiful pitch stretching to the top of Aegir. Past the 2nd bolt, make sure your shoulders and washboard abs are warmed up for a powerful low crux. A couple of small pieces and a marginal rest lead to more stiff climbing: edging and side-pulling up an island of climbable features, with blank real estate on either side. The huge horizontal weakness that slices the NW face offers not only a good rest, but also ample time to think about lobbing off in the last 80 feet of terrain. Some small but bombproof gear permits safe passage through a semi-insecure section, and then 4 bolts guide you up to and over the final battle: an outrageous, intimidating roof guarding the anchor. This last section could prove to be a heartbreaker. A finger or medium-sized cam can be placed before the anchor if desired. 5.12c, 130 ft. 2 bolt anchor.
Route can be descended to the ground by rapping the route with a 70 m rope. The first rap down to the 1st pitch anchors is close, so pay attention.
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