Playing Hooky
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British C2
Avg: 3.8 from 21 votes
Type: | Aid, 375 ft (114 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | Charlie Fowler, Kevin Chase, Jimmy Dunn, Pete Verchick |
Page Views: | 10,154 total · 48/month |
Shared By: | Brejcha on Jan 10, 2007 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route goes up the middle of the center tombstone. It is a super aesthetic climb (esp. P3) and has some great exposure. It can be a little noisy when all the jeeps and dirt bikes are crusin' around. This route has gone free, and there is a lot of chalk up there.
Pitch 1 (5.7 or 5.10d): Two ways to go. A goofy 5.7 chimney pitch starts far to the climbers left of the P1 anchor. Begin up a sandy slot, a couple very easy stem moves puts you on a ledge, traverse a few feet right and climb up the 5.7 crack/slot to a ledge, passing a drilled angle. Once on the ledge, walk/scramble to your right for a long way, it's kinda funky. Watch for loose rocks, I almost killed my dog on this pitch. Rope drag can suck. All of this can be avoided by a 5.10d direct start, which begins directly below the pitch one anchors.
Pitch 2 (C2): Easy traverse up and right to the crack. Begin with C1,pass some bolt holes for an old anchor after about 60 feet and continue up steep C2 to a three bolt sling belay below a tiny roof. Airy belay spot.
Pitch 3(C2): Begin up the beautiful,airy,thin right facing diherdral. At the top of the corner,the crack goes from really thin to wide. Continue up the wide crack to a bolted belay.
Pitch 4 (C2):Follow and open book to the top, steep.
Pitch 1 (5.7 or 5.10d): Two ways to go. A goofy 5.7 chimney pitch starts far to the climbers left of the P1 anchor. Begin up a sandy slot, a couple very easy stem moves puts you on a ledge, traverse a few feet right and climb up the 5.7 crack/slot to a ledge, passing a drilled angle. Once on the ledge, walk/scramble to your right for a long way, it's kinda funky. Watch for loose rocks, I almost killed my dog on this pitch. Rope drag can suck. All of this can be avoided by a 5.10d direct start, which begins directly below the pitch one anchors.
Pitch 2 (C2): Easy traverse up and right to the crack. Begin with C1,pass some bolt holes for an old anchor after about 60 feet and continue up steep C2 to a three bolt sling belay below a tiny roof. Airy belay spot.
Pitch 3(C2): Begin up the beautiful,airy,thin right facing diherdral. At the top of the corner,the crack goes from really thin to wide. Continue up the wide crack to a bolted belay.
Pitch 4 (C2):Follow and open book to the top, steep.
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