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"Elementary Dear Watson"
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 12 votes
Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Brian & Jonathan Smoot, Clay Watson |
Page Views: | 1,177 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | bsmoot on May 23, 2010 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch 1: Climb past a triangle shaped flake to a fist crack. Ascend this to one of 2 choices. You can move left to an undercling. Above this, difficult sporty face move leads to easier climbing. The second option is to continue up the crack 8' to a flake. Move up to a hand crack. Both options are about 5.9. It's also possible to skip this pitch by scrambling further up the gully and then traversing back left.
Pitch 2: Ascend the bolt protected arete above to a slab. Move right past 2 bolts. Make a long reach past a steep bulge to good holds. Excellent slab climbing leads to Fudd Ledge (5.9+). If you're short, the steep bulge may not be possible. If you're tall, like Mr. Watson, then it's...elementary.
Pitch 3: Ascend the short, beautiful face right of the regular route (5.7). You can belay at the ledge at the top of the face (small & medium cams) or continue up Tingey's.
Pitch 2: Ascend the bolt protected arete above to a slab. Move right past 2 bolts. Make a long reach past a steep bulge to good holds. Excellent slab climbing leads to Fudd Ledge (5.9+). If you're short, the steep bulge may not be possible. If you're tall, like Mr. Watson, then it's...elementary.
Pitch 3: Ascend the short, beautiful face right of the regular route (5.7). You can belay at the ledge at the top of the face (small & medium cams) or continue up Tingey's.
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