Gunks Beginners Ticklist

Hey all,

Just finishing up my second season in the gunks, and wanted to get a few more leads in before the season is over.

So far I have led

-Tipsy Trees 5.3
-Three Pines 5.3/5.4 (only the first pitch)
-Reach Around (Peterskill 5.7/5.8 that I projected a bit)

I'm looking for climbs that can be done as single pitch leads and are new-leader friendly as I get more and more comfortable on my own gear. I have done a multi-pitch, but I don't have enough gear for gear belays yet, and would feel more comfortable with doubles 150' up.
I would like to do a few more 5.3's and 5.4's to get my confidence up and I'd appreciate suggestions for my first 5's/6's as well!

I have a set of nuts, tricams pink to brown, cams .4-2 (thinking about adding either a .3 or a 3 next thoughts?), and 8 extendable draws. I can borrow draws from friends, but this is what I have in terms of gear just to throw it out there.

Any ideas are appreciated!

Update Edit as of 11/20:

I have since creating this post ticked
Bunny 5.6 (roof variation)
Rhododendron (by headlamp)

I'm having fun pushing toward the 5.5/5.6 grade on single pitch and am hoping to expand my repertoire at these grades near the ground and start leading some classic 3's and 4's to the top!

That said, The Jackie-Classic linkup will hopefully be my next lead!

Gelsa is inspiring me too.

P.S. I've since picked up both the .3 and 3... let the gear whoring begin.

If it's between a .3 and a 3, get the 3. I say this because a C4 in the .3 size is somewhat redundant - you can cover the same range with a better/narrower cam. I prefer Aliens, some prefer C3s; both work well.

I would look at Northern Pillar (5.2-5.3), Ribs, Beginner's Delight, Minty, Bunny (all 5.4), and Horseman (5.5). Horseman is only a 5 but it feels very exposed and can be heady for a new leader. Also, for Horseman either bring a 70M or do two rappels.

Incidentally, Northern Pillar is a great candidate for a multi-pitch because it has lots of protection options in all sizes and a bolted belay - so you should have plenty of gear.

And just in case, as you're a fairly new climber (although I apologize if this is old news to you) - never toprope through the bolted anchor stations. Always add your own quickdraws to toprope, then clean the anchors when you're done.

Yep, that much I know!

Honestly I've followed Horseman twice already and still don't find it appealing to be honest!

The .3 was going to be an X4 or the corresponding sized alien. The 3 would be very useful in the 'dacks, but the staff of rock and snow unanimously said the smaller piece would be more useful in the gunks...

WR

Congratulations on your trad leading to date. Sounds as if you are going bout it a very measured fashion. I was actually talking this weekend about my early leading days at the Gunks working up through the grades starting with a very short rack. A set of nuts, 3 tricams and 3 cams was what my first rack consisted of.

Regarding gear, I would continue speaking with and listening to Andrew and the guys at R&S. You will get no better advice. As well as you build your experience you will figure out what you need.

Did you do just the first pitch of Tipsy Trees or do the second as well?

Easy V (5.3) at the Arrow Wall would be a good challenge. You could belay from the Arrow chains. Easy Overhang (5.2) near Baby will bring you up to the GT Ledge where you can use the Baby chains to belay and rap. The first two pitches of Ribs(5.4)have bolted anchors. Don't do it on a busy day or get on it first thing in the morning since the anchors serve Station 2 and 3 of a rap line.

Additional suggestions get you into the 5.5's.

The first pitches of Middle Earth and Bomb's Away Dream Baby both go at 5.5 and utilize webbing anchor at the huge Pine tree on a comfortable ledge. Second pitches of both go at 5.2 and take you to another tree belay/rap anchor. The last pitch (5.5) of Middle Earth is stiff, definitely stiffer than the first pitch. I would save it until you are really confident on 5.5's.

Jackie (5.5)has great climbing and great gear and takes you to a good ledge with bolted anchors. It is many people's favorite pitch at the Gunks. For the second pitch do the second pitch (5.4) of Classic to the top and sling a tree for a belay. It is a fun open book with great gear that features beautiful white rock. Don't be deterred if it seems a bit overgrown. Once past the brush at the start it is nice and clean.

Resist the temptation to rap the route from the tree if there are slings on it. Much better form to walk down utilizing the Uberfall downclimb. Faster than rapping and you won't be dropping ropes on people.

Good luck, have fun and climb safe.

I'm with the shop guys here - the Gunks really gobble up finger-size cams. Big cams protect yer butt in other areas (ADKs etc) but you want to hone your leading skills in the Gunks, and you can lead for years here without a #3.

I think it's important that you climb with a more seasoned partner on your first several leads. Among other advantages, you can borrow some of their gear (small cams, more slings) that you don't have yet.

Routes: Rusty Trifle (I prefer the alternate start), Minty, Jackie, Sixish, Beginner's D.. Oh hell, just go with DW's multi-star, G (or PG) rated routes. And ask your more experienced partner if there are routes where (s)he can lead the crux pitch and give you the sharp end for an easy pitch.

If I remember right (only done it once, I think) Bunny felt a little tricky for the grade. There is also quite a lot of activity on the road right there, which you might find distracting if it's one of your first few leads.

Betty is great. I know you said single pitch, but definitely no reason not to top out on that one.

It's a bit of a walk, but Casa Emilio is a fun adventure. Twin Oaks is pretty good.

Easy Overhang is great, although be sure you have a good selection of slings for that one or you will learn a little more about rope drag than you might want to. Hard to communicate on Easy O also, make sure your belays allow you to get near the edge to hear your second, and make sure everyone knows the "3 tugs" method of communicating off and on belay. Not only will you be glad that you can communicate with your second, so will everyone else in a half-mile radius of you.

Between the 3 and the .3, I would get both! Although I guess if someone gave me the choice between adding to what you have for the Gunks, I would double up on the 0.75 or the 0.4 before I got a 3. Plenty of uses for the 3, though, especially on the easier climbs, and I sure wouldn't want to lead Rhododendron for the first time without a 3. As someone else said a yellow C3 might be more versatile than a 0.3 because those smaller cracks can get too narrow or shallow to permit all 4 cams. I think a fair number of people carry a 3-cam and a and a 4-option when they fill out their rack, but at those small sizes if you have to carry just one, you might want the C3.

Asphodel and Rhododendron are two good easy climbs that are still fun, and so is Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

Also: check out Andrew!

Ben Brotelho wrote:Asphodel and Rhododendron are two good easy climbs that are still fun, and so is Finger Locks or Cedar Box. Also: check out Andrew!

Fingerlocks was my first trad lead. Man that thing is polished at the bottom. Good gear most of the way. He'll need small cams though for that face above the roof if memory serves.

Andrew is PG-ish. If his head is good, then yeah. It also has that huge flexing flake midway up Pitch 1. Is there a rap after P1?

Rhodo is awesome, maybe one 5.6 move and the rest 5.fun . Tons of gear available the whole way, then TR Laurel next to it (easy access to the chains above Laurel).

William, without having climbed with you I can't say for sure what your next leads should be. I've been out with first timers who could lead 5.8 safely out of the gate, and others who should stick to following/TR'ing some more. It's really about the quality of your placements and how you feel in your head while on the sharp end.

losbill wrote:Easy V (5.3) at the Arrow Wall would be a good challenge. You could belay from the Arrow chains... The last pitch (5.5) of Middle Earth is stiff, definitely stiffer than the first pitch. I would save it until you are really confident on 5.5's.

Easy V's first pitch is 5.1 in the guide I think. 5.3 is probably today's grade/reality though. It's a long pitch but I seem to recall there being lots of optional nut placements, so his cam selection should suffice. Definitely DO NOT try Pitch 2 of Easy V. Possibly the most sandbagged pitch in the entire Gunks. Lol

Speaking of sandbagged, Pitch 3 of Middle Earth is a hefty lead for a newbie. I feel it's a 5.7 roof move, and even getting up to the roof is a little scarey for a new leader. Middle Earth is another climb having small gear helps.

I'd spring for the full set of Aliens up to the red one (which will overlap nicely with the .4 and .5 black diamond C4s you already have). Metolius also makes smaller cams that I used for a few seasons and liked very much. Follow your wallet in this case, can always upgrade when you're fully hooked later and start developing personal preferences.

Jon H wrote: Also, for Horseman either bring a 70M or do two rappels.

Im going to give you some differernt - unsolicited - advice because the above struck a chord with me. You've got plenty of gear and route selections and I'm sure you will get lots more. What I am going to suggest is that if the Gunks are going to be a common venue for you to climb at that you learn where the walkoffs are and how to get to them from various points along the cliff top. Horseman is so close to the standard Uberfall descent that it is silly to rap it.

You will still probably end up rapping most of the times but it's at least nice to have other options.

Losbill: I led both pitches of tipsy trees. Thanks for the advice!

As per others, suggestions, I am definitely hoping to swap leads with a few more expereinced partners when I'm pushing myself, or running into trouble, but the 5.3 or so is a grade I'm comfortable climbing with someone around my own level of knowledge.

Kevin: Admittedly, on single pitches I'm usually quite content, can commit to moves, and have fun going upwards, but when I'm on the second pitch at a tricky spot with scarce pro I definitely start getting nervous. Hence why I'd like to push through the grades a bit before doing more serious multi-pitch. Swapping leads with a partner for some 5.fun pitches would probably be good for me too...

Eric: I really do need to learn the Uberfall descent. I've been in the gunks 2 years and climbed about 30 days this season! I have no excuse!

To the rest, thank you for all the suggestions! It seems like the consensus is a) just sack up and climb, you already have enough gear
b) small stuff is king in the gunks (I should have my dacks partner buy the big stuff)
c) I'm actually going about this pretty well!

Thanks all!

Gunks is a great place to perfect the nut craft - I seldom felt a need for doubles other than finger sizes. Learn how to get by with a single rack and you'll rule the mountains! check out Double Chin - fun single pitch 5.5.

Double chin is a fine, well protected climb, but in my opinion quite hard for the grade. Maybe I missed something at the top, but I would have given it a .6 or .7.

Kedron Silsbee wrote:Double chin is a fine, well protected climb, but in my opinion quite hard for the grade. Maybe I missed something at the top, but I would have given it a .6 or .7.

BETA alert!!! chimneying (AKA butt-scumming) keeps it at a grade.

WillamR wrote:Losbill: I led both pitches of tipsy trees. Thanks for the advice! As per others, suggestions, I am definitely hoping to swap leads with a few more expereinced partners when I'm pushing myself, or running into trouble, but the 5.3 or so is a grade I'm comfortable climbing with someone around my own level of knowledge. Kevin: Admittedly, on single pitches I'm usually quite content, can commit to moves, and have fun going upwards, but when I'm on the second pitch at a tricky spot with scarce pro I definitely start getting nervous. Hence why I'd like to push through the grades a bit before doing more serious multi-pitch. Swapping leads with a partner for some 5.fun pitches would probably be good for me too... Eric: I really do need to learn the Uberfall descent. I've been in the gunks 2 years and climbed about 30 days this season! I have no excuse! To the rest, thank you for all the suggestions! It seems like the consensus is a) just sack up and climb, you already have enough gear b) small stuff is king in the gunks (I should have my dacks partner buy the big stuff) c) I'm actually going about this pretty well! Thanks all!

I've been on a 5+ year crawl through the grades. I started doing select 5.3/5.4/5.5 in the gunks and have only progressed to select 5.8s (whereas I'll generally hop on almost any 5.8 elsehwere). It's a great place to learn the art of leading, but the climbs tend to feel harder than climbs elsewhere, or often they're just grunty jug hauls. A few climbs come to mind, they're technically "only" 5.8 but you expend the energy needed to get up some 5.10s because of how sustained/burly they are. It's pretty easy to figure out which ones are really tough for the grade. Lots of beta out there for the Gunks climbs, and the comments on the route pages here tend to tell the whole story.

WR I feel very comfortable with my pitch suggestions knowing you have done P2 of Tipsy Trees.

WR I feel very comfortable with my pitch suggestions knowing you have done P2 of Tipsy Trees.

If your looking to expand your rack grab some pink and red tricams the pink is like a .5 c4 and the red is like a .75 c4 but they fit better in funky spots they are harder to place but in the gunks they are crucial

Like optimistic said, Casa Emilio is a good one, especially in the next few weeks when the gunks is going to be PAAAACKED. This one will be open or a short wait. It's tricky to find, head for the area and look for a huge boulder you can scramble to the top of from the inside that makes a little cave thing. You step off the boulder onto the wall to an easy 5.2 short pitch that you can protect with trees or cams. At the end of the pitch is a giant ledge with trees you can bring up your 2nd on, or put a directional to the rap station (webbing) that's a few feet off route. 2nd pitch is a 5.4ish with a few nice moves, very well protected. Ends at another rap station on a tree. So you can do the full climb with one rope since P1 has a rap station. Communication is also great as it's away from the Harley's on the turn and you can always see your follower.
I typed this all out because usually it's very difficult to figure out the rap stations at the Gunks, and I did this last weekend. I thought the whole thing was a 5.2 and I brought up my non climbing wife who had a melt down on P2 because she couldn't do it. haha good times though. Also on the walk to the climb you'll get to see like a hundred garder snakes mating or something, there were literally piles and piles of snakes all around. Completely harmless though.

Kevin Heckeler wrote: I've been on a 5+ year crawl through the grades. I started doing select 5.3/5.4/5.5 in the gunks and have only progressed to select 5.8s (whereas I'll generally hop on almost any 5.8 elsehwere). It's a great place to learn the art of leading, but the climbs tend to feel harder than climbs elsewhere, or often they're just grunty jug hauls. A few climbs come to mind, they're technically "only" 5.8 but you expend the energy needed to get up some 5.10s because of how sustained/burly they are. It's pretty easy to figure out which ones are really tough for the grade. Lots of beta out there for the Gunks climbs, and the comments on the route pages here tend to tell the whole story.

Very few climbs at the Gunks are sustained, but there sure are plenty of burly ones.

Update:

I have since creating this post ticked
Bunny 5.6 (roof variation)
Rhododendron (by headlamp)

I'm having fun pushing toward the 5.5/5.6 grade on single pitch and am hoping to expand my repertoire at these grade near the ground and start leading some classic 3's and 4's to the top!

That said, The Jackie-Classic linkup will hopefully be my next lead!

Gelsa is inspiring me too.