What does your Woody look like???

Here are a few pics from the 40 degree wall I built in my garage this summer. I put a wide hands crack between the two panels so the wall is just over 8ft wide and 8ft tall plus about 2ft of room at the bottom. I'll probably add a kicker there eventually. I also may add a roof section or 15 deg wall on the right.

Drew about to build a similar wall... Did you feel the 2x6 foot provides enough support? 1/2" or 3/4" plywood for the panels? Same question if 1/2 was used is that rigid enough?

Sdm, I used a 2"x8"x10' board for the edge of each plywood sheet and 2"x6" boards in the middle and the wall is solid. You could maybe get away with all 2x6's, but the 2x8's are way better for the hand crack in the middle (a 2x6 wouldn't create a deep enough crack) and they also give you more room on each arête for screw on holds like I have. Depending on your wall angle, that's what I would recommend. If you build it less steep (say 20 deg?) you could use just 2x4's on the middle of each panel, but I would still use 2x8's for the arêtes and a crack if you build one (though 2x6's would do)

I'm not sure Tnuts would work in 1/2" plywood - the middle of the nut might stick through the front of the hole and prevent you from tightening holds down. Either way, I would use 3/4" anywhere your hands may be when climbing (especially on walls > 10 or 15 deg) - you could maybe use 1/2" down low where starting feet if the tnuts aren't an issue.

Best of luck. A home wall is a ton of fun

Thanks for the insight, you confirmed a lot of plans that I was considering. Also looking at doing a 20 deg and a 40 deg section with a roof portion. I have roughly 10'8" of ceiling height to work with.

Whoa KevinCO. Does it work?!? Can you make it fingers or is it hands only?

Yea, I used all-thread. Because of the variation in thickness of the cultured stone, it is currently adjusted from mostly hands, to thin hands and one section of fists.

KevinCO wrote:Yea, I used all-thread. Because of the variation in thickness of the cultured stone, it is currently adjusted from mostly hands, to thin hands and one section of fists.

Kevin, very cool looking device. I'd like to try that one.

After topping out, Kevin can walk around and pick apples

Jon Zucco wrote: That's impressive.

Woodchuck ATC wrote: Kevin, very cool looking device. I'd like to try that one.

Alot of sweet walls out there. Im impressed with alot of the ones Ive seen. Mine are free standing (I live in a historic home and unwilling to tap into it) and follow KISS. No angled corners, super simple.

I have three walls. My barn has a 8ft wide x 12ft high slightly overhanging wall (not pictured here). These two are in my house for winter training mainly. I love my traverse/endurance wall and often warm up and cool down on it + to stay in shape for long trad routes I can work endurance (because its not too overhanging = not too stressful on body + can work technique)

My more severe overhanging wall has a perfect hands splitter in the middle, the right face is 8ft + kicker and the left is straight 10ft.

Just fixing a few loose holds before the fall season here. Some dry tooling will occur too if I choose to sacrifice some holds to the damage of the tools.

Finished this guy up about a month ago. 8' wide, 40 deg overhang with 10' of climbing surface and a 12" kicker. Fits snugly on the back wall of my apt's one car garage, and the best part is that I can still park my car in there!

Just did a repaint and added a couple of volumes. Changing it up and keeping it fun!

Yeah, climbing walls are great for keeping the ghosts busy.

Hi everyone. I just signed up so this is my first post. Ive been checking out everyones posts for a few days now and I figured I would post what mine looks like and see what everyone thinks. Im thinking about raising the top angle up a little to make it feel bigger. Let me know what you think.

Hi guys, new here; I'm pretty excited to have found this thread, since I'm planning on making a freestanding bouldering wall in my backyard. I have the main ideas for the design down, but there's still some tweaking to be done, so I'm looking for any feedback and insight into the questions I have.

I'm planning on a wall about 16' wide (2 plywood sheet lengths wide) and maybe 16' of 'vertical' climbing surface (4 plywood sheet widths up). I was thinking of setting the wall up so that one side is 30 degrees from vertical on one side for two panels and finishing with a roof type of 70-80 degrees from vertical, and the other side would start out 60-70 from vertical and finish 20-30 from vertical. Thoughts on this or should I have the entire wall the same? For anyone that has tried a similar design -- any feedback? If I have time this weekend, hopefully, I'll get a model of it.

I have a couple of structural/construction-related questions. First, how do I deal with flex in the middle of the wall. For instance, my plan for the wall is 16' wide, which is broken up into two 8' wide sections. It seems straightforward to brace the outer ends with a beam running to the ground creating a triangle with the wall, beam, and ground. However, the center of the wall -- 8' in -- will still be largely unsupported. Supporting the wall similar to how the ends are done with result in an ugly wall sticking out of thew all toward the ground. Is the only option to have a beam behind the wall? If so, it seems it would require not only the beam behind the wall in tension, but additional components to anchor that beam to. Are there any other ways to do it -- something I'm missing? I'd like to avoid digging a post into the ground if possible.

Second, what is the best way to adjoin two vertical sections of different grade/steepness (for instance, a 30 degree section that turns into a 60 degree section)? Let's say that I create the frame/truss structure for each grade; what is the best way to join them together?

Thanks!