Type: Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, 1973
Page Views: 6,564 total · 30/month
Shared By: Denis O'Connor on May 21, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1: About 30' right of the huge right-facing corner, climb up past a left-facing flake to a small overhang. Up and slightly left to a small right-facing corner, then diagonal up right to the overhang, heading for the obvious flake. Clear the overhang at the flake (long reach) then diagonal up left to a bolted belay/rap station. 5.9, 90'.

This pitch used to be called 5.8+ but is 5.9 in the latest Williams guide. I'd say it's easier than that if you're 5'9", and harder than that if you're 5'6".

P2: Head up slightly right to a ledge. Then up trending left past a short left-facing corner. 5.5, 100'.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack

Location Suggest change

This route is located at the far end of the Trapps, just before the S-turn in the carriage road where one exits for Sleepy Hollow. There is a yellow-blazed tree to mark the faint trail, which initially heads up a short, steep embankment. Follow blazes and cairns from there to a very large block, passing it on the right. Head left at the base of the cliff. The first pitch can be rappelled with one 60m rope. From the top of the 2nd pitch, walk left and rappel Casa Emilio, or walk further and descend Roger's Escape Hatch.

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