Indian Head Cliffs ADK?

Hey all! I hiked to Indian Head and Fish Hawk Cliffs above the Lower Ausable Lake last spring at the end of a long day hike. I was instantly struck with the sheer amount of rock surrounding the lake, the size of the Indian Head Cliffs themselves, and the incredible views of the lake and massive Great Range looming behind. I know this land is property of the Ausable Club and therefore climbing is banned there for now but just out of longing curiosity, does anyone know any history of climbing at this spot? Also, is there any word of this area ever being opened to the climbing community in the future?

Dylan Randall wrote: Also, is there any word of this area ever being opened to the climbing community in the future?

Nope.. You have to be vouched for by current members before you even need to worry about coughing up 100 Gs for membership. Don't forget your white pants!

If there ever is I want to climb Rainbow Falls when it freezes! I realize there's better routes but damn that would be cool.

BTW.. I always want to hijack that shuttle bus every time I return tried and hungry from a hike up to Sawtooth, Gothics or one of the others.

Climbing history dates back to at least the 1930's. John Case, Jim Goodwin and Fritz Wiesner all added routes to Indian Head back in the day. Other routes have been done since by club members and various partners although at this point any history is word of mouth only. I wouldn't hold my breath on this area being opened for climbing anytime soon.

Kirby, I don't know where you got your figure but 100K is way out of the ballpark and having climbed Rainbow Falls in winter I can tell you you're really not missing all that much -it forms cauliflowered and not as steep and impressive as one would like.

MaxSuffering wrote:Climbing history dates back to at least the 1930's. John Case, Jim Goodwin and Fritz Wiesner all added routes to Indian Head back in the day. Other routes have been done since by club members and various partners although at this point any history is word of mouth only. I wouldn't hold my breath on this area being opened for climbing anytime soon. Kirby, I don't know where you got your figure but 100K is way out of the ballpark and having climbed Rainbow Falls in winter I can tell you you're really not missing all that much -it forms cauliflowered and not as steep and impressive as one would like.

That's what the guy who told me the amount of the initial payment for membership and yearly dues said about Rainbow Falls. Like I said.. I understand there's better routes but I guess I always want what I can't have! Haha. Makes me wonder if that person ever climbed Rainbow Falls if doesn't his number is wrong. I heard the yearly dues were 30 grand/year too. Funny though I seem to heard all that somewhere else. Gotta love rumors.

Indian Head used to be open to climbing back in the 60's and 70's. The Trudy Healy rock guide (1967, first book of its kind in the ADKs) lists the routes known at that time. I went there in 1975 with our college outing club for one of my first multi-pitch climbs, and as I recall we did a variation to one of the published routes. The rock quality was actually pretty poor, but maybe not out of the ordinary for mountain crags that never saw much climber traffic.

Also - just to torment you - if you ever get your hands on the World Book Encyclopedia from the 1960's, the article on "Mountain Climbing" opened with a nice photo of a climber on Indian Head. Rapping down as I recall. The lake in the background was quite the distinctive feature.

But alas, that was then, and now it's buttoned up and off limits so the 1 percenters that never climb can enjoy their scenery.

Gunkiemike wrote:But alas, that was then, and now it's buttoned up and off limits so the 1 percenters that never climb can enjoy their scenery.

If you don't like it, take up a profession where raping others for profit buys you exclusivity. Until then, stfu. :-D

Kevin Heckeler wrote: If you don't like it, take up a profession where raping others for profit buys you exclusivity. Until then, stfu. :-D

FYI I would have no problem with the fees, I just don't have the connections to get invited. Exclusivity is more than just economic.

Either that, or maybe I have a problem with a bunch of old farts locking up vast tracks of god's wilderness. (Uh oh, here come the property rights folks!)

Gunkiemike wrote:Either that, or maybe I have a problem with a bunch of old farts locking up vast tracks of god's wilderness. (Uh oh, here come the property rights folks!)

Nowadays economic status/position and land rights tend to go hand-in-hand. It's a rare case when poor people own nice lands. That's why the ADKs are special - so much beauty is owned or controlled by the State. The Ausable is one of the last vestiges. Good riddance I say.

Kevin Heckeler wrote: Nowadays economic status/position and land rights tend to go hand-in-hand. It's a rare case when poor people own nice lands. That's why the ADKs are special - so much beauty is owned or controlled by the State. The Ausable is one of the last vestiges. Good riddance I say.

The funny thing is that there are a lot of people in the ADK's that own quite valuable land that has been in their family for generations who, but for the value in their land, are pretty poor.

I'm definitely for the state buying as much as possible, though...until the state government shuts down and we are denied access to the park.. :P

Anyone ever climb OK Slip falls?

Ben Brotelho wrote: The funny thing is that there are a lot of people in the ADK's that own quite valuable land that has been in their family for generations who, but for the value in their land, are pretty poor.

I've heard many stories of people being forced to sell their land because property taxes got out of reach. This is very common around Lake George.

I can imagine it happens quite a bit

Kevin Heckeler wrote: I've heard many stories of people being forced to sell their land because property taxes got out of reach. This is very common around Lake George.

We're on Tower Point in Silver Bay. The taxes on the two homes are 25% of the original purchase price of the land back in 1959. Feels like taxes for homes in Baltimore City. We looked at a rowhouse with a beautiful view of the Inner Harbor. I passed when we were told the taxes would be $14,000/year! Are taxes better up around Keene?

I hope all the development would stop! The water at the south end of the lake is cloudy and murky now. You can see the sediment from the air.

Kirby1013 wrote:Are taxes better up around Keene?

Yes, but almost everything connected to water (river, stream, especially ponds and lakes) is pricey. Exception are flood prone areas. I would imagine getting insurance for that home would be as costly as the taxes.

Kevin Heckeler wrote: Yes, but almost everything connected to water (river, stream, especially ponds and lakes) is pricey. Exception are flood prone areas. I would imagine getting insurance for that home would be as costly as the taxes.

Thank you for the reply Kevin. I don't need waterfront. I just like dreaming about the place that does not involve an hour drive back after climbing, hiking, skiing etc.. Haha.. I enjoyed the Bivy's location the one night I stayed.

Your property taxes are going up because your land is increasing in value.

Meaning, your most valuable asset is becoming increasingly valuable.

I wish I had your problems.

The Cowardly Noob wrote:Your property taxes are going up because your land is increasing in value. Meaning, your most valuable asset is becoming increasingly valuable. I wish I had your problems.

Yeah, it's a luxury problem for those who can afford to pay the taxes. That's why so many have sold their land over the past decades as real estate prices have ballooned. You still have to be able to pay the taxes. So what happens is the wealthier class, who can afford the taxes, buy the land. It temporarily makes the poor, prior land owner wealthier but in the long run removes balance in the local community. Now you have tons of summer vacation homes and no residents. The demographics of the north country are slowly shifting back to the days of the great camps. Without sustainable employment many residents have already been forced to flee. Tupper Lake is a good example of the decline. All factors are conspiring against the lower class surviving in the ADKs. It's really an extreme example of what's happening nationally.

that's a great response Kevin.

Kirby1013 wrote: Thank you for the reply Kevin. I don't need waterfront. I just like dreaming about the place that does not involve an hour drive back after climbing, hiking, skiing etc.. Haha.. I enjoyed the Bivy's location the one night I stayed.

There's still cheap land around the Schroon Lake area (not ON the lake, but within a few miles of the town). Best bet is to get land zoned for residential and put a nice trailer on it. If you like to camp, you could just put a parking spot along the road and pitch a tent on weekends. At least you know (hope) no one will be putting a tent up 10 feet from you.

Kevin Heckeler wrote: There's still cheap land around the Schroon Lake area (not ON the lake, but within a few miles of the town). Best bet is to get land zoned for residential and put a nice trailer on it. If you like to camp, you could just put a parking spot along the road and pitch a tent on weekends. At least you know (hope) no one will be putting a tent up 10 feet from you.

Thanks Kevin. Way to drive up my real estate prices. Are you guys shopping for land? There is a piece for sale right near the under the northway access into Dix wilderness area.

Kevin Heckeler wrote: There's still cheap land around the Schroon Lake area (not ON the lake, but within a few miles of the town). Best bet is to get land zoned for residential and put a nice trailer on it. If you like to camp, you could just put a parking spot along the road and pitch a tent on weekends. At least you know (hope) no one will be putting a tent up 10 feet from you.

We were going to do that in Squamish years ago. We ended being stupid and bought a condo in the upper village of Whistler BC. I say stupid because we didn't research the pharse, strata fees. Thanks again for the info but I couldn't buy a home in Keene. My in laws would never speak to me again! Haha.. My wifes family are very worried someone will decide to sell. As you already touched on, there's a few families around the bay that have sold because of children not having money, time interest etc. I spent equal time in Keene and North Conway last winter. I really enjoyed the fact it's way less crowded in the High Peaks. The only thing that sucks is it always snows in Cascade Pass! Especially when you're coming back from the bar late. Haha..

TParis.. I don't wanna hear that! The land sounds real good even though it's near 87. It's not like anybody drives on that highway! Haha..

there is also always frontier town....