Indian Creek Trad Gear Beta / Dirtbagging Beta

Hey,

So I am headed to pop my Moab/Indian Creek cherry in a few weeks... Looking to earn my bachelor of arts degree in hand-jamming and finger-locks while out there.

The problem: I only have a standard Sierra rack, aka, doubles from really small -to- 3", and a single 4" & 5". It is becoming more and more obvious that needing upwards of 6 or more of the same size is common on many of the super classic Indian Creek lines.

What is the beta for this? Is it acceptable ethic to shoulder tap other climbers in the area for the gear you need? Is there a campground message board that is fruitful in this regard?

On the dirtbag side of the equation, my girlfriend and I will be living out of my truck during this time, and don't exactly have the budget for paid camping... is free and legal camping easy to find near Indian Creek and the surrounding areas (Arches, Fisher Tower, etc)? Is free potable water easy to locate around these areas?

Not looking for you guys and gals to spill your super secret spots, just general beta from the community would be stellar.

Really looking forward to our trip!

Cheers and Thanks!

My experience, based on being there during the slow summer months, is that everyone is happy to share routes and gear. Just show up at the parking lot for Donnelly or talk to folks that are camping near you. You should not have a problem finding partners. YMMV, but I think you will be fine.

Have a great trip.

edit to add - There are numerous free and legal camping options. Just search around on this site and google and you will find tons of info.

Make friends, (having extra beer helps) and just go. A lot of people go there in your position. When you need their threes, they'll probably need your ones. Just have your gear marked well and share and share alike. The atmosphere at your typical Creek crag is about as pleasant and communal as I've ever seen climbing.

This is all good news guys. I was hoping the vibe would be welcoming.

I figured The Google would hold some answers in regards to camping, but thought I'd fish for some good first hand info here 1st...

The "search google" wasn't meant to be rude. Sorry if it came off that way. It is just that there are a BUNCH of options between the Fishers and IC. My take would be head to Bridger Jack's or Superbowl first. You can see learn more about the area and what you want to do while there. If you want to move on, you can...

IC / Moab is a really cool area. I always get my assed kicked when I climb there, but keep coming back because I love it so much.

Best wishes for a cool trip!

Tyson W. wrote:Is free potable water easy to locate around these areas?

1.) GearHeads generously allows anyone to fill water containers in the store. You don't have to buy anything but you should, GearHeads is an awesome shop.

2.) There is a seep spring that may or may not be flowing, on the river road (hwy 128) twenty seconds drive east of the intersection with hwy 191 (becomes Main st. Moab to the south.)

NC Rock Climber wrote:The "search google" wasn't meant to be rude. Sorry if it came off that way.

Not at all man, any help is appreciated, thanks for the more specific camping info.

@ Sorden: Thank you!

Bring lots of firewood - fires draw climbers to your site, makes it easier finding new friends. If you plan on camping at the Creek Pasture - bring earplugs (the weekend-warrior arrivals all through Friday night into wee Saturday morning hours is quite annoying, or you never know if you end up camping next to a big group of college students). If you don't feel like driving to Moab for supplies, Monticello has a decent market and you can fill up water at the gas station. Keep your camp clean at all times (i.e. put away food) - lots of dogs running at large. Make sure to fill your coffee pot with water the night before. Enjoy - your feet are gonna love it!

Firewood is a great idea. But I cannot overstate the value of real, above 4% alcohol beer. You can get real beer in Utah, but not easily. Load up on a couple of cases, and show up with a campfire with extras for other folks, and you won't ever have trouble finding good groups to climb with. My first trip to the creek was with five other people for two weeks. I don't think there was a single day that we didn't have a handful of other solo climbers latched onto our group for cam-sharing and good company. All of those folks just moseyed over to our campsite for beer in the evening or coffee in the morning, and we were nothing but psyched to have them around.

30 packs of (real) PBR will get you up scores of 5.10 hand cracks. If you bring some Sierra's you could probably convince someone to put up some off fingers in a corner, maybe even Way Rambo. I'd suggest Lagunitas, Racer 5, or something from Rogue for tr's on things such as Optimator, Tricks and Belly Full.

Top roping belly full of bad berries is sweet!

Hey,Tyson we now live in slt,but spent a fair amount of time out there. Lived near there .Me and the wife are talking about going there for Halloween. We would be up for sharing info or rack if your going around then. I have a rack that will help for there.( 5#1,6#2 5#3 etc.) Give me a call and we can talk. 530-314-3622. Wife only belays single pitch love to get back on a tower!!!
Tom