5.10+ to 5.11- G Trad routes in Conway

Looking for a quick list of the best 5.10+ to 5.11- G Trad routes in the N. Conway area, preferably single pitches cracks! but open for anything!

Cheers
Marty

-Lichen Delight (and the variation)
-Airation
-First pitch of Intimidation - do the 'nut trick' and its G/PG.
-Screaming Yellow Zonkers is pretty solid 11/11+ but as G as it gets, just go try it, you won't regret it.
-Crack in the Woods
-Ethereal... maybe. Really small gear. More of a slab climb with micro nut pro.
-Sleeping Beauty
-Recluse can be entertaining. After you fall off the first few times remember it used to be 9+.

Sweet thanks, I had already my eyes on most of these, just wanted to confirme with ppl on MP that they where good! we could even up the list to include 5.11+ and 5.12- as long as they are G!

SYZ is especially deserving if you are trying to push it. 20 min easy walk in, and you'll have the place to yourself.

The Possessed also has great gear (after the easier start) but its f-ing hard.

Budapest at 11+++ is awesome. Approach it via the first two pitches of Diedre. If you know where you're going you can rap in too.

Good list cj... i would add Lights In the Forest if you want a multi pitch..it's really good
also;

sleeping beauty-11b 5 pitches
P1, women in love 11+ 2 moves
jack the ripper-11b very good

budapest ..i agree, maybe a "top 5" pitches on Cathedral

John, are you referring to Sleeping Beauty on Whitehorse? What are the top 3 pitches like?

Vultures at Sundown (off the Kanc) - great single pitch route.

cjdrover wrote:John, are you referring to Sleeping Beauty on Whitehorse? What are the top 3 pitches like?

john strand wrote: Must have changed ! i remember one pitch finger crack. Near the Echo roof Are you thinking Interloper ?

john strand wrote:Good list cj... i would add Lights In the Forest if you want a multi pitch..it's really good also; sleeping beauty-11b 5 pitches P1, women in love 11+ 2 moves jack the ripper-11b very good budapest ..i agree, maybe a "top 5" pitches on Cathedral

Book of Solemnity

I'm not so good with typing.. Lights is 5 pitches.. Sleeping was 2 pitches,but the pin belay is pretty mank now. it can be linked or belay lower

If you're including 11+, then obviously the Prow. 2nd pitch is all bolts, 4th and 5th pitch go at C1 with some small gear and lots of pins.

Also, the Possessed is great. Perfect gear, you just have to stop and place it. Super clean falls too since it's overhanging. It's basically sport climbing.

Atlantis and Last Unicorn pretty cool.