All Locations > New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > N Organs > Lambda

Yellow Brick Road

Name: Yellow Brick Road
Rating: 2.6

5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Lambda

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bastard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dyslexic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fun and Games T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Glenda the Good Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	If I Only T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Lions and Tigers and Bears T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Munckinland T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Not in Kansas T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Slipper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Tin Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	We Are Off T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	We Are off Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	West Face T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wicked West T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Wizard of Ooze T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Yellow Brick Road T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,783 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Aaron Hobson on Aug 15, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Power drilling is prohibited in the Organ Mountains Wilderness. Details

Description

This climb has two worthy challenges: puzzling route-finding and variations for the first pitch, high exposure and some commiting moves up the second pitch.

The R&I topo shows the first pitch starting somewhere up on the low angled scramble beneath the descent gully. It depicts 5.5 climbing traversing in from the left on ledges. More direct variations work as well, but the protection can be tricky. There are many shallow corners with tight seams that can be followed, all of them relatively low-angled, but not always easily protectable. Aim for an old 1/4" bolt (which can be backed-up) which is shared by Wizard of Ooze. While that route traverses left here, this route tends right towards an obvious break in the roof above with a large block in front of it. Belay on top, or behind this block.

The second pitch takes a nice corner system up to the summit, and has some great exposure.

Once on the top of the route, scramble about 20-30 feet to the right, where you'll find the rap anchors on the edge. It is right next to a living tree with an old red sling hidden on it's trunk. Two raps with 60m rope will get you to the 4th class scramble, taking you the rest of the way to the base of the climb.

Location

Starts on the low-angle scrable beneath the descent gully. Head for the obvious break on the right side of the upper headwall. Descend as for Wizard of Ooze.

Protection

A standard rack will suffice, with an emphasis on tiny wires if you want to protect the thin seams on variations to the first pitch. A large fixed piton is passed 15 ft beneath the belay for the 2nd pitch. This could be used as an alternative belay for this route or Wizard of Ooze.