Oh my nuts!
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I have a double rack to 3", plus one 4". (1/2 Black Diamond Cams, 1/2 Metolus Cams) I have a set of Black Diamond Stoppers up to a #14. Last night I lost my #12 nut on a route. I have been thinking about adding more nuts to my rack. I like the price of the Black Diamond Stoppers when you buy them as a set, but don't know if I should double up on the same brand. Would you recommend getting another full set or would you recommend carring another make/model to handle a broader set of routes? |
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^^^ This. Get the full set of DMMs and you'll be happy you did. |
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I found this good article comparing nuts and DMM does seem to win out as the favorite. I like my big nuts. It is ashame that the sets only go up to a #11. (Is that comparable to a BD #11 in size?) |
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Br'er Rabbit said: "This. Get the full set of DMMs and you'll be happy you did." |
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I'll put in another plug for DMM offsets. |
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Another thumbs-up for DMM offsets. I have a set of Wallnuts as well and often don't carry them and rarely place them other than obvious nut placements, and for anchors. |
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Jake Jones wrote:I think the blue DMM is the biggest one (there is a smaller blue as well I think). Yes, it is as big or bigger than the BD #11. I think it's more around the 12 or 13 in comparison.Comparing the two here, the longest dimensions for the #11 DMM offset (the big blue one) are about the same as the dimensions of their counterpart edges on a BD #12. The smallest offset (#7 DMM) is about a little bigger than a BD #6. If you select your nut based on color (I don't) the colors of the DMM offsets only kind-of align with nuts of a similar size in the BD or WC line. |
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T.J. Esposito wrote:Another thumbs-up for DMM offsets. I have a set of Wallnuts as well and often don't carry them and rarely place them other than obvious nut placements, and for anchors. Just got a set of offsets a few weeks ago and have been placing them way more frequently. I threw the largest 3 DMM brass offsets in with them as well, I think that's going to be my new nut rack for granite trad.I do the same. DMM Alloy Offsets on one carabiner and another carabiner with the two largest brass offsets and a set of peanuts. |
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I too add the next couple smaller sizes in brass.... |
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Chris D wrote: Comparing the two here, the longest dimensions for the #11 DMM offset (the big blue one) are about the same as the dimensions of their counterpart edges on a BD #12. The smallest offset (#7 DMM) is about a little bigger than a BD #6. If you select your nut based on color (I don't) the colors of the DMM offsets only kind-of align with nuts of a similar size in the BD or WC line.I see what you mean. I picked up a #8 DMM to replace my #12 BD. (Sizes were comparable) If I like it, I am going to buy a set. |
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I have the wallnuts and the dmm offsets. I would get the offsets if you already have a set of stoppers. I place stoppers more than most, and obviously it depends where you will be climbing, but if I was going to double up on just a few sizes it'd be wallnuts #3-#6 (silver, gold, blue, red). It could be nice to have another #2 wallnut as well but that can be covered by the brass. |
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I now have a full set of BD stoppers, a single DMM walnut, a set of #7-11 offsets and a single #6 brass offset. The offsets and brass should arrive next week. I am looking forward to experiencing the hype these get. |
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We have a set of Black Diamond stoppers, and we ended up getting a set of Camp Pro nuts. We loved them so much that we doubled up on the set. I'd highly suggest checking them out. They're usually cheap, too. |