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Alternatives to Yosemite (Govt Shutdown)

Original Post
Kyle Smith · · Santa Rosa · Joined May 2013 · Points: 10

I'm looking to find a place to climb at this week, my friends are flying in from NC originally to spend a month in the valley but it looks like that's not going to happen. Any suggestions for climbing areas within 5 hours that would be open?

Thanks

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

look at the needles, owens river gorge & anywhere in the eastern sierras.

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,065

Donner Summit & Tahoe crags
Lovers Leap, Phantom Spires
Calaveras Dome, Hammer Dome
Sonora Pass/108 with new fat guidebook
Shuteye with new fat guidebook
Courtright, Wishon, Tollhouse
Needles, Dome rock
Domelands

And that's just the well known stuff on the westside...

-from my post on the first page:
supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

Sshhhhh, Greg! If people find out that there are miles of Yosemite quality rock and routes all over the Sierras, without the crowds, we may actually have company ;-)

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,065

Yosemite quality? I don't think Yosemite has too many jug fests on vertical golden featured granite at 5.10... woops, I meant all that other rock is crappy, yes please stay away.

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415

Its all choss once you leave the Valley - everyone knows that.

Serial Crusher · · A house · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 1,030
Ryan Nevius wrote:Sshhhhh, Greg! If people find out that there are miles of Yosemite quality rock and routes all over the Sierras, without the crowds, we may actually have company ;-)
+1
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349
its all choss once you leave the Valley - everyone knows that.

SO true.... I have spent my entire life looking for climbable stone out side of the VALLEY but have yet to fine it.
milesholland Holland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0

you should just hike down from porcupine flat and lay low in the valley....

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
Greg Barnes wrote:Donner Summit & Tahoe crags Lovers Leap, Phantom Spires Calaveras Dome, Hammer Dome Sonora Pass/108 with new fat guidebook Shuteye with new fat guidebook Courtright, Wishon, Tollhouse Needles, Dome rock Domelands And that's just the well known stuff on the westside... -from my post on the first page: supertopo.com/climbers-foru…
Its ALL choss. Every last piece of rock on that list is not worth climbing.
susan peplow · · Joshua Tree · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,756

Hey Greg,

How many of those areas are Forest Service or BLM? That could be an issue too. Always the Owen's River Gorge right?

I was thinking the same thing about here in JTree, even our pseudo-local sport areas are out.... NJC and Big Bear area crags are Fed lands too.

Steven Sheets · · Livermore, CA · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 30

Some national forest land are closed off too on HW 108 and elsewhere.

Two weeks ago we went to climb near Donnell Reservoir and the forest roads were closed due to the high fire danger. The claim is that they'll be lifted in December. Make sure you check in with the forest service before heading out.

Of course, it's all choss out there anyway. Nothing but pure choss.

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

Damn Nate...do you know what's happening w/ those that are on the wall? Are they getting sniped down if they don't bail?

Bill Shubert · · Lexington, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 55

Just idle curiousity - how strictly is this lockout of the parks being followed? If you got a friend to drop you off somewhere along 120, say, and hiked a few miles into the valley, would anybody be there to shoo you out? Sure, you'd have to pack in all your food, but it's not all that far a hike. For a weekend of climbing it would be fine, and as said, you'd have the park all to yourself.

Unless there are rangers patrolling and calling police on any trespassers. Are there? Anybody know?

Greg Barnes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,065

Susan, they don't try to "close" BLM and USFS land. Maybe if there's a gate (I could see them closing the Needles approach road if they felt like it). At Red Rocks during the last shutdown the BLM didn't have any signs or enforcement about hiking in to the sport crags like First Pullout - just the road was gated.

NPS is more of a LEO centric culture (as opposed to a sell off the resources to the highest bidder culture), and they will close stuff that the USFS and BLM wouldn't bother (e.g. you can bet the jeep roads into JTNP are being closed).

Apparently the House repubs are feeling the heat enough to be putting forward a temporary fund-the-parks-and-the-Veterans-Administration bill. Hard to say if this will be short or long shut down.

Towering tindall · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 5

I dont understand? Probably just blatant ignorance. But what is the point of shutting down the National parks & such? I mean do they plan to remove the rangers from the parks? So even more will they only be partially patrolled for trespassers? And again for what reason?

susan peplow · · Joshua Tree · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,756

Greg, that makes sense. I saw the post about the BLM and Red Rocks and dug around a bit more. BLM actually going through the efforts of posting their contigency plan (props to them). This is the short FAQ sheet. doi.gov/shutdown/fy2014/upl…

I would imagine the FS falls under the same basic guidelines but not psyched on driving a 3 hours round trip to Big Bear just to see. Pretty cool the community is already trying to figure all this out - better yet would be a full reopening..... SOON!

USDA Forest Service Message 10/1/13

Mark Thomas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,635

Yep, all there is in the Sierra outside of Yosemite is stuff like this. Move along now, nothing to see here!



By the way, even if some East Side trailheads are closed, there are some quality routes that start from the Owens Valley floor that could be considered as Plan B climbs if you don't mind a little extra elevation gain. It will just be like winter has come early!
Kyle Smith · · Santa Rosa · Joined May 2013 · Points: 10

Thanks for the beta guys, Mammoth sounds like the winner

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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