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Another hangboard post: doorway is too tall and the molding too wide

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El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70

I just moved into a new apartment. I tried installing my hangboard in the typical fashion (putting it on plywood and drilling that into the studs above a door frame), but there isn't enough space above any of my doorways. The actual molding around the door frames is too wide (5.5 in width and 7 in deep) to put in my Irongym pullup bar, or I would attach it to that in one of the plethora of ways that are described on here. I also can’t seem to find a screw in pullup bar with neutral grips to simulate an Irongym. I don’t want to spend tons of money on a stand-alone hangboard mount. From what I’ve seen, they run around 100 dollars to build. I was considering two options.

1.) Attaching the hangboard to plywood and attaching that directly to the studs behind the molding (so in the doorway rather than above the doorway). The one risk is that I am renting and this would put a bunch of holes directly into the molding.

2.) Putting two parallel horizontal or vertical 2x4 sections on the studs behind the molding and attaching the hangboard/plywood setup to that. It’s the same basic principle, but I feel this would reduce the number of holes I drill directly into the molding.

Does anyone have any alternate suggestions/links to screw in pullup bars with neutral grips/opinions on my ideas? Thanks.

Edit: Link to photos with ruler for scale: imgur.com/a/yiG6d#0

dylandylandylandylan anddylan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 107

If I understand the second option, I think that would be better. It could be really difficult to accurately match the trim color.

Is there 7" above the trim, clear to the ceiling? Then you could fit two 2x4s, or plywood spacer, above the trim, and there should be a good header above the door to really screw those into. The hangboard will be mounted on a piece of plywood, which is attached to the 2x4s or spacer, and you'll only have to patch some drywall holes.

dylandylandylandylan anddylan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 107

Oh, if you're doing 2x4s above the trim, I would mount them horizontally.

sanz · · Pisgah Forest, NC · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 210

option 2, horizontal 2x4s

Insert name · · Harts Location · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 46

use a frame (2x4's) and then mount plywood to that that runs overtop of the moulding. this will allow it to be lower. You can sue a thin piece of foam pipe insulation to put on the back sid eof the plywood to protect the moulding.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

when I had to do this, I mounted the hangboard to a piece of 3/4" oak board, which had two half-inch holes drilled at 45's on each end. Then, to the wall outside the molding, I mounted two pieces which had dowels angled up, matching the board the hangboard was mounted on. I could easily put up/take down the hangboard. The pieces outside the molding looked like this, the plank the board was mounted to latched onto them:

My hangboard hanger - One of these on each side of the door, matching holes in a hardwood board that spans the doorway. The whole hangboard is then removable.

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

Larry, that is pure ingenuity. How does it hold up with weight on it? Is it stable?

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

4x 8' 2x4s:

Make "twin" vertical members, straddling the each side of the doorway, pin them together with either a cut of 2-by and a nail/screw at the bottom and just under the top of the doorway opening, or with all-thread and some nut/washers (like making a crack machine on each side of the doorway with the width of the door way in the "crack" part of the crack machine). Then mount your normal plywood board to those. They will straddle the top of the doorway, and no need to drill into anything, nor any need for complex construction, free standing, etc.

This will slightly narrow the width of the doorway opening (I'm assuming there is no actual door, just an opening into another room) since the vert members will be slightly inside the edges of the doorway.

If you can't visualize what I'm saying, I can sketch something when I get home.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061

Actually, having looked at your linked pic, I'd just take a trim nail puller, remove the top piece of trim, delicately, store it in a closet, and mount your board normally. Tack the trim back up when you move out.

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

Here's one way you might do it. It's a combination of Will's idea and and Monty's idea (in the what does your woody look like thread) for a semi-free standing hangboard/campus board mount. In my design, I'm not interested in testing the lateral force in the studs (I live in a decrepit old victorian in Baker/WWP), so I plan to have the twin 2x4's bear the brunt of the vertical force and just bracket the frame around the door frame using metal L brackets. Although, if your studs are for sure in good condition, you should consider mounting the frame to the studs with chain or rope so that you can adjust the angle ( Like Monty's campus board ).

I've posted my doodles for the hang board surface too. The slope/pinch/pocket feature is essentially a 4x4 with four angled cuts and two holes drilled (a two finger and a mono). I realize that having them too wide will be unproductive. Any ideas on the best range of width for pinches and slopes?

I get that oak is probably the best choice for a hangboard, but it is damn expensive. At least, relative to my wage. What other woods? Is pine OK...

Any criticisms or suggestions? I'd love to hear them. I am still in the design phase.

tentative hangboard and frame design.

bad drawing of the back, but you get the idea.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872
Jon Zucco wrote:Larry, that is pure ingenuity. How does it hold up with weight on it? Is it stable?
I missed the follow up on here, sorry. I had this setup about 5 years ago at an old apartment. It held up fine for 2 years solid. The trick is making a jig so that all the holes match up and clamping the jig to the span-board to the brackets and drilling them all at once.
Tyler Tylerson · · The Swamp · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 20
This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.
Nick Russell · · Bristol, UK · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 2,605

Do you have an attic? I mounted mine in the trapdoor up to that. Maybe a bit elaborate, but I'm in rented accommodation so didn't want to screw anything into the walls.

Fingerboard mount. No permanent fixture.

AWinters · · NH · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 5,120

Sweet setup Nick. What about adding some plywood to the overhanging supports and mounting some holds so you can campus up from and back down to the hangboard?

Nick Russell · · Bristol, UK · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 2,605

Thanks Adam! Actually, I was thinking of getting some campus rungs and doing something like what you suggest

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

Carefully pull down the top piece of molding. Drill your holes in the header and hang the board . When you move take it down put the molding back and use it to cover the holes . You won't even need to patch the drywall. Just use the molding to cover the holes.

Nick Russell · · Bristol, UK · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 2,605
Jake Jones wrote: Looks like you have 9ft ceilings though.
Yeah, the ceilings are pretty high. And I mounted it quite low down so my girlfriend can reach all the holds too. I think 8ft ceilings would leave you enough space.
Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

Leaving your attic scuttle open like that is a quick way to lose a lot of heat in the winter. I'd rather put a few holes in the wall.

Nick Russell · · Bristol, UK · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 2,605

Yeah, I had considered the insulation thing, at the moment it's not a problem but we might start to feel it in a few months. More DIY could be required, bit throwing a couple of blankets over the top will probably do just as well. Or just removing the board when not in use...

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255

True. Or a sheet of rigid insulation cut to fit around the frame.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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