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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

Went up to Mt. Evans and climbed the chimney between Ozark Prom Queen and Ozark Backwoods on the west buttress. The Aprons and cliffs above Summit Lake are the driest they have been all season. I think that during the "mega storm" that the tops of the high peaks were above the clouds, but any cliff below 13,000ft is wet and holds potential once it gets colder.
-Happy Hunting

The fattest ice around.

Scrappy.

Noah McKelvin · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,500

Fun ice and choss out south. So it begins..... Get some

Mixed.
Ice.
Choss.

Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Noah8000 where were you?



Looking good...maybe before December 1st?
Kevin Gillest · · Winter Park CO · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 3,372

For at least 10 years, mid-Sept/early Oct would roll around and I would get an email from Jack Roberts about what have I heard, have I climbed anything yet...

Now another year has past, looks like we are all be on our own to do all of those approaches, instead of emailing Jack. Jack Roberts was CO ice climbing at its finest, always knew who got the seasonal FA, who had climbed what that season, and always let you know that your hopeful FA was already climbed.

Another year of missing Jack

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

The Ice Gnomes are are back at it up at Lincoln Falls.

Ice Gnome.
Top of the pillars area.

Tony T · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45
Kevin Gillest wrote:For at least 10 years, mid-Sept/early Oct would roll around and I would get an email from Jack Roberts about what have I heard, have I climbed anything yet... Now another year has past, looks like we are all be on our own to do all of those approaches, instead of emailing Jack. Jack Roberts was CO ice climbing at its finest, always knew who got the seasonal FA, who had climbed what that season, and always let you know that your hopeful FA was already climbed. Another year of missing Jack
<3
Tony T · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45

...and also, more precip is coming in this weekend and Long's Peak and Bear Lake trailheads are open again! Here we go!

Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80
"Long's Peak and Bear Lake trailheads are open again!"

Huge relief. Now just the wait for Boulder Canyon...

CDOT: Boulder Canyon to reopen by 'mid- to late October'
coloradodaily.com/latest-st…
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Is Lincoln in yet?

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Buff Johnson wrote:Is Lincoln in yet?
Forecast shows nighttime lows there between 16 and 32 degrees for the next week st 12,000 ft. I doubt it's in yet, but give it a week? And tools will need sharpening
Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

Lincoln Falls might take awhile to form because of to much water flow, the streams are raging and not allowing for good formation, plus don't knock down what is there, yet:)

You will have better luck up at Blue Lake and McCullough Gulch by Quandry mountainproject.com/v/quand…. Noxious Fumes and Claim Jumper are both in excellent condition and there's a new pitch that needs a FA in the descent gully of Claim Jumper.
The Blue Lakes region is holding a couple of jems. These two are right above the lake on North Star Peak and go at about WI3 M4 400ft and there's a rap anchor in place.

Yukon Jack.

2nd pitch of Yukon Jack.

Goldschlager, M1-2, 120ft.

Alex Banas · · CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 0

Oh ya Yukon jack in real nice

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

Get your "man pants on" for the Colorado version of Canadian Rockies mixed climbing. North Star hasn't looked this good in eight or so years. It's in fat and blue, including the right hand runnel variation. Get on this one before it sublimates out. This photo is about a week old, the ice is very nice!

North Star.

Jonathan White · · highlands ranch, co · Joined Aug 2005 · Points: 105
Next to Black Wall.

Next to the Black Wall near Mt Evans. There are other chimneys in the area that have ice in them.
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

How about now...is lincoln in yet, I need to tr a killa pillah

Clayton James · · SLC · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

SOFA KING PSYCHED!!!! Thanks for the updates fellas!

topher donahue · · Nederland, CO · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 210

SMEAR OF FEAR IS IN! Yesterday it was 2-4 inches thick for 400 feet but will be fatter with the next cold snap. Too bad the Feds just shut it down. Sofa king pissed.

See photos from September 30th, 2013, ascent in thin conditions here.

Smear of Fear and Crazy Train good to go.

Mike Walley · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 355

Nice photos and good blog Topher. You are right about BIG government too! How did Alexander's Chimney look?

Jason Maki · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 95

Something tells me that despite it being "closed", smear of fear will have a line on it Saturday morning.

erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355

Is Martha in yet?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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