Mellow finger cracks in Josh?

Hi all,

I am looking for some mellow-er finger cracks to take my wife up on our next trip. Plan to do Exorcist, which I've done a few times over the years. That's probably about my lead limit, and certainly as hard as she could follow.

Any other fun ones I should know about?

Thanks,

Kit

sail away
smooth as silk

IMHO... Exorcist is not really Mellow, but if that is the standard....

Tax Man

You're right, Guy. It's not really mellow, about my lead limit. It is lots of fun, though, with good gear and good feet. I know lots of folks think 5.10 is mellow, so I was trying to provide a benchmark.

- Kit

Justin,

Thanks. I haven't done Sail Away for years and years. Forgot all about it. Don't know the other, but I'll check it out.

- Kit

Kit.... yes many think 5.10 is ezy, but from what I see many of those climbers hang like dogs.

Exorcist is a great climb and a proud send.

If you want to challenge yourself, I recomend "Clean and Jerk."

great holds, good enuf pro and a real nice line.

The problem with JT IMHO is none of the climbing is pure.

You might get good crack climbing leading to a face crux (Exorcist for example)

I also recomend "Invisability Lessons" on Future Games Rock, really good crack climbing on clean stone.

Your wife might like "Bacon Flake" or "young lust" both are on really nice stone.

Have fun, its cooling off now.

Go to White Cliffs & that area:

Popular Mechanics (5.9 one-move, mostly 5.8 awesome fingers in corner)
Ace of Spades (5.8/9 fingers/hands, shares start with Popular Mechanics)
Tossed Green (10a fingers/pods/etc)
Right Baskerville (10a fingers/bulge crux)

Plus that you can find some shade - but it can get too cold in midwinter.

if its mellow you are on your feet and not jamming any body parts, just saying

Hey Kit, last time I was in Joshua Tree was '85, and I'm thinking back twenty-eight years ago, but I assume the climbs haven't changed. Here's an upward progression of good routes with finger cracks (or partial finger cracks):

Toe Jam (5.7)
Sail Away (5.8)
Dog Leg (5.8)
Touch and Go (5.9)
and, Right V Crack (5.10)

Have fun!

Wow!

Thanks to all of you for the tick list. I'll print it off and keep it in my guide. It should take us more than a few trips to work through those... Especially with kids in tow.

There are quite a few on there I did years ago, but I have a lousy memory and a friend lost my original guidebook with all my notes in it.

I appreciate you taking the time to post. I'll try to follow up after a couple weekends out there.

- Kit

Kit, this might just get you going.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzStwhfIpdM