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Do you stick clip? Why or why not?

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615
D.Buffum wrote:If you blow the clip while trying to clip above your head then the fall factor will be lesser than if you blow the clip at your waist because you will have more rope out. Significantly lesser? Probably not. But it might make a difference if the piece below you is marginal.
Huh? Are you on the right thread?
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"Why is this even a question? Who cares what others think."

BINGO!
William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

you must care whoever said that (not you locker). why else post and/or check a forum? clearly caring about opinion (since this site is information ran, not pictures, etc) you must.

as a species who lives amongst eachother in a society we should all care what others think and do. what i think youre harping on is wether or not (or how) i use opinions given.

if im not afraid to make decisions without the publics opinion then why is it so bad to know what my peers think and how they feel?

if you claim to not care why are you on this site? masterbating?

Bob Dobalina · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 140

I have a telescoping cheater stick.
I got it for big wall aid routes where there might be missing rivets/bolts on the fixed ladder sections. It lives in my haulbag. I have never used it for sport climbing, but I would.

I need to climb harder sport I guess.

Jeffrey Arthur · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 290
Peter Jackson wrote:Here in Rumney, a stick clip on the first bolt is common, expected in certain places, and in most cases would not negate a redpoint. Stick clipping the second bolt would negate a redpoint. Please do stick clip if it keeps you safe. And if you get a clean send, then on your next attempt, forgo the stick.
So did everyone in Rumney negate Dave Graham’s first ascent of The Fly because he stick clipped the first AND second bolt? Let's not forget that The Fly has only two bolts, no anchor and is 25-ft. Subsequent ascents also stick clipped the 1st & 2nd bolts of The Fly (Tony Lamiche, Chris Sharma and Luke Parady).

I'm curious how this got listed in the Rumney guides for the FA info? One could argue that the FA should have gone to Jason Kehl for doing the first ropeless ascent since I'm sure most of us would agree that you haven't technically redpointed something until you've led the route without falls. Personally I wouldn't even consider any of these valid redpoints because they were top roped up until Jason Kehl and Kevin Jorgeson came around and soloed the route (or call it a highball boulder problem).
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

When I was at the MotherLode in '07 for the RockTour RRG RockToberFest comps, we were sticking' the first bolt for many a world class climber for a safe, fast competition that day. Never heard a complaint from the crowd or the world class climbers that day. So who are we to complain if a climber wants to safely clip that first 20 ft?

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50

decking hurts

Siberia · · Birmingham, AL · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 30

Hell yes.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

It depends.

If I believe the risk of getting to the first bolt is higher than I wish to undertake, I will happily stick clip.

In fact, even if it is moderately risky, I will tend to stick-clip if I can.

It was having had a climbing partner fall and break a rib before clipping the first bolt on a climb that brought me from the occasionally-grab-a-piece-of-tree-and-some-climbing-tape to buy/build-a-stick-clip-device-and-bring-it-with-me camp.

Sometimes I forget it. Sometimes I don't use it, if the first bolt is low and/or the landing is good and/or the climbing is easy. But, I would rather not risk a ground-fall if I don't have to.

And, I don't feel that stick-clipping the first bolt negates an on-sight/red-point. (Beyond the first bolt... iffier.)

Rajiv Ayyangar · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 220

Like most sport climbers, yes. I usually stick-clip.

For those who don't, the question to ask yourself is: How many climbs do you do per year? How many times per year do you solo up to the first bolt? (I'd estimate 2k-10k). Is the risk of falling worth the ooooodles of exhilaration and ego-stoking you get from soloing up to the first bolt on a sport climb? I didn't think so.

And Lanky, no need to assert how tough you are. Anyone who's ever seen you sport climb (which is no one, let's be honest) can attest to that. :)

ian watson · · Sandia park, NM · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 235

I wonder how many people that are against a stick clip would expect help/help out if they fell and broke something? I would help but it would ruin my day for something that could have been avoided.

doug rouse · · Denver, CO. · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 660

Never considered this as an ethics question. If the line to the first anchor has buckets, then run on up..if it cruxes, or has a tinyhold to pull off of, then use a stick..Ask anyone whose climbed Discipline in the Flatirons, Coffee and Cornflakes at the City...

lou · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 60

Stick clipping is for ladies.
Which is where the sport is headed more and more. Just cause Sharma climbs 5.15 sport doesnt make him a tough guy... there are 19 year old and less girls doing it, that would cry if you stepped on their toes or they didnt get to see the boy band of the week.
Stick clippers are often the type to call it an onsite for a pinkpoint... ethics gone to the ladies room.
cheers... lou

Dan Austin · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0
lou wrote:Stick clipping is for ladies. Which is where the sport is headed more and more. Just cause Sharma climbs 5.15 sport doesnt make him a tough guy... there are 19 year old and less girls doing it, that would cry if you stepped on their toes or they didnt get to see the boy band of the week. Stick clippers are often the type to call it an onsite for a pinkpoint... ethics gone to the ladies room. cheers... lou
If you're sport climbing because you want to be a "tough guy" you should get your head checked.

Also, this applies if you replace "sport climbing" with anything else.
camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240
lou wrote:Stick clipping is for ladies. Which is where the sport is headed more and more. Just cause Sharma climbs 5.15 sport doesnt make him a tough guy... there are 19 year old and less girls doing it, that would cry if you stepped on their toes or they didnt get to see the boy band of the week. Stick clippers are often the type to call it an onsite for a pinkpoint... ethics gone to the ladies room. cheers... lou
Sexist much?

Good to know that you're keeping your 5.11s pure and masculine without stickclips.
Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
The Stoned Master wrote:Until this past weekend I had never stick clipped a single bolt. I was eyeing up a route and the first bolt was a bit high (relative). Not terrible but I was definitly aware of the distance between me and the first bolt. A dude had a telescoping stick clipper and offered it. I turned him down at first but ended up using his stick clip. I am totally "on the fence" about using a stick clip. The "just have fun" and be safe part of me sees the appeal of using a stick clip. But another part (or two) of me sees using a stick clip as a "robber" of the full experience. Do you use a stick clip? Why or why not?
Not reading the other responses. The answer is simple.

Someone rapped down the route and put the bolts in for you. If that doesn't keep you from climbing a line, then clipping said bolts with a stick shouldn't either.

"The full experience" of sport climbing should not include fear or the chance of getting hurt. Sport climbing is about one thing: climing as hard as you possibly can. To do that, you need to be safe.

If you want to be bold, traditional, whatever you want to call it... Go trad climbing.
William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

Doug said: Never considered this as an ethics question.

It is interesting because I hadnt seen it posed that way before. One point of view running through my mind was "if the first ascensionist didnt stick clip should I"?
NOW I dont think others, anyone else needs to think that way. Its personal to me and I am not against stck clipping, just trying to figure out exactly how I feel and think about my own personal experience(s).

stick clipping makes sense if there is a negative (relative) consequence to me. i dont get paid to be out here (wouldnt matter anyways), I just want to create as many experiences as possible (lots of routes, lots of variety with features, route distance and difficulty). learn from them and continue moving, never stop moving...

shotwell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0

I've climbing a line with a very difficult to clip 4th bolt coming out of a no hands rest. When I went for the onsight, I found the clip much more difficult than any of the climbing on the route. On my second attempt I skipped the bolt (knowing that the fall was fine) and sent the route.

When I talked to the FA about the bolt placement later, I learned that he had hung a long draw and clipped that bolt from the rest. Obviously no one carries a stick clip on an attempt, but if I had known this you can bet your ass that I would have pulled one up to hang and clip that draw from the rest.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264
lou wrote:Stick clipping is for ladies.
And 5.9 hand cracks are so badass, only worthy of tough guys.
Jorde · · Boulder · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 150

Of course I use a stick clip. I can't climb 5.14 and those hanging draws aren't going to steal themselves

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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