history lesson

All Locations > New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 7. The Slabs > Cormier-Magness Route (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

history lesson

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RW enjoys the fabulous P2 ("Wheat Thin Pitch" ?) Put this pitch at any climbing area in the world and it would get 3-4 stars. At J-Tree, folk would start lining up at 5am and by 9am there would be 6 parties (not 6 climbers!) waiting in line.

Off the Anchor P4 "Open Book"

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4.7 from 3 votes

Benjamin Brooke

Sep 25, 2013

“history lesson”

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Nearby Photos

Cormier-Magness - whole route. NOTE- Once you do the traverse on P4 it is difficult to get back to the route if rapping. You are pretty much committed to topping out or rapping through the trees of "Beginner's Easy".

Start of pitch 5.

A little beta on where to go for P4.

New anchors after pitch 6 and 7.

Classic Whitehorse tricam placement.

RW enjoys the fabulous P2 ("Wheat Thin Pitch" ?) Put this pitch at any climbing area in the world and it would get 3-4 stars. At J-Tree, folk would start lining up at 5am and by 9am there would be 6 parties (not 6 climbers!) waiting in line.

history lesson

Off the Anchor P4 "Open Book"

Platinum Slab

Beautiful route

Dorian following high Low Beer Light pitch.

Low Beer Light Pitch

Pitch 3

Wheat Thin Arete

Belay Tom up the Wheat Thin Arete

John Garlough on the Open Book pitch

Look, Ma, no hands!—nearing the top of P7

Looking down at the Cajun Washboard pitch, 5.6

Upper 3 pitch's as seen from the Guides Wall

Great climbing, great view.

Scramble up to a nice tree for the first belay station.

For our Marines and Sailors in Quarantine ! OH RAH

The Cajun Washboard. Dave Lottman photo.

The Platinum Slab

Leading pitch 2 - The Wheat Thin Arete. Photo by N. Santos - 6/2022

Open Book Pitch Exit Cracks

View of Cormier-Magness Platinum Slab pitch from Beginners Easy Variation (maybe). There's some nice slab at the right of Cormier-Magness.

Looking down P4 just before starting up the final flake/handcrack.

The licheny P4 traverse.

The Wheat Thin Arete. Dave Lottman photo.

The hand drawn topo. I was only able to find a really crappy picture of the original topo on NE alpine start. My girlfriend traced over it to make it readable. The cajun washboard pitch became "the cajun woman bond", but otherwise everything looks good.

Nuno at the belay after leading pitch 3 - The Cajun Washboard - 6/2022

The original topo

Crack behind the tree atop pitch 1. This is a great spot to make a belay anchor while standing on the ledge.

A view of the top of the Open Book pitch, merging into the Northwest Passage pitch, was taken from Beginner's Easy. You can see a steep flake beyond the tree with the tat (orange tat here). I think this is the correct flake to climb. There's also a chunky flake beside a tree, about 10 feet further back, which is much easier if you have any doubts.

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