"prussiking" without any slings or cords
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with all discussion about REI, Obama, and the decline or morality in general |
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What do you need to learn all that for? My cell phone worked great from the top of the Chief to almost Cal Creek! Haha.. |
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Kirby1013 wrote: What do you need to learn all that for? My cell phone worked great from the top of the Chief to almost Cal Creek! Haha..well if u want the free whirly bird sightseeing tour ;) |
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I always figured if I got into trouble SAR would walk across 99 from town to come get me. I thought I be able to relay on one of the dozen or so people watching me with binoculars by the bridge crossing the Sea to Sky to see my smoke signals! Wait.. that only happens on weekends. |
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Kirby1013 wrote: I always figured if I got into trouble SAR would walk across 99 from town to come get me. I thought I be able to relay on one of the dozen or so people watching me with binoculars by the bridge crossing the Sea to Sky to see my smoke signals! Wait.. that only happens on weekends. Seriously, Bearbreeder, What do you carry for self rescue? I carry two autoblocks (plus a one I rap so three), a PAS and a spare ATC. I know I could carry less but I'm a Noob. Plus I'm feel comfortable I can escape a belay, jug up to grab broken ankle boy and then descend with him/her. Tthe reality is that if your at the top of a long pitch you may have almost no gear IMO you should be able to escape and get out with no more than a spare biner or two and perhaps a single sling the penberthy is one item that allows you to use the rope for friction knots when you used up all the slings on the pitch its like the munter, anchoring in with the rope, biner brakeetc ... and other skills that allow you to use less gear where you dont have said gear ... or your partner dropped it while being mauled by a crag bear that inhabits the ledges ;) |
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bearbreeder wrote: the reality is that if your at the top of a long pitch you may have almost no gear IMO you should be able to escape and get out with no more than a spare biner or two and perhaps a single sling the penberthy is one item that allows you to use the rope for friction knots when you used up all the slings on the pitch its like the munter, anchoring in with the rope, biner brakeetc ... and other skills that allow you to use less gear where you dont have said gear ... or your partner dropped it while being mauled by a crag bear that inhabits the ledges ;)Thanks.. lots to think about now. |
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A simple tautline hitch has worked for decades for those in the arborist trade. I, myself, prefer a Blake's hitch to a tautline for ascending. And the better part is, both can be done with a lot less than 15 feet of rope. |
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Dan Felix wrote:A simple tautline hitch has worked for decades for those in the arborist trade. I, myself, prefer a Blake's hitch to a tautline for ascending. And the better part is, both can be done with a lot less than 15 feet of rope.ahh ... but the 15 feet includes the loop coming back and what you need for the leg loop ...and what you need to tie off the device, assuming prussic in reality its quite a bit less ... but regardless the key is to plan for it before hitting the knot at the end of your rope the best thing about the penberthy is that its VERY easy to remember .... tie it a few times and youll never forget it ;) |
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I had hope and thought there could be change. Then I realized if you promised a reduction in cord usage you really mean an exponential growth. Next, your wife is going to tell us what to eat on long routes. And that no American climber should excel above climbers of other nations. Then, if we get to the top of a route, we didn't get there by ourselves. |
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ive received a few questions about the penberthy |
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In a pinch I've modified tying a taut line hitch into a prussik tied with the end of the rope. Four wraps per side seems like the minimum I'd trust, for what it's worth I'm not sure I'd trust it with a live load, but it's easy to evaluate for someone familiar with prussiking. |
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Noah, I have also used the modified tautline as you pictured. Someone taught this to me a while back as the "stitch prusik." Although it may be more difficult to move up and down the line, it seems like a better solution to me as it is extremely easy for most climbers (I would think) to properly evaluate if it is tied correctly, will it hold, etc. I guess if you are familiar enough with other knots and confident in their use like the OP, one should go with those. |
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After thinking this over for a bit, I rigged a weighted setup, and after testing a few different options, I found it easier to use the penberthy. It's simple to think of it as basically an in-line kleimheist. Doing this I was able to easily rig a 3:1 with both truck and progress capture friction hitches using only ~15' of rope end and a few biners. |
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its actually more of a single strand hedden since the eye is at the bottom, not at the top like a kleimheist |
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Gotta make me Google Hedden knot.. I see how it is. Haha.. |
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one interesting thing about the hedden is that you can turn it into a knot with an ABSURD amount of gripping power, but still be fairly releasable ... all with a slight variation |
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I pull out my Scotty because his transwarp theory is correct |
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bearbreeder wrote:one interesting thing about the hedden is that you can turn it into a knot with an ABSURD amount of gripping power, but still be fairly releasable ... all with a slight variation basically you do one wrap UNDER the eye, then the rest above like a hedden mr. prohaska published this two decades ago "pleasurable" knots ... hmmmmm =P proof in the pudding ... heres 25mm nylon holding body weight just fine with 1 wrap under and two wraps over ... on old 7mm stiff cord no less !!! so if you ever need to jug back up a single half/twin ... or your tag line ... ;)Thanks! Definitely interested in tying one with webbing. |
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I tried the Penberthy last night on a whim at the gym, and even with just the foggy memory of the picture I saw in this thread I found it easy to tie first time - so I am now a believer it could work for me. I will do some experiments this weekend at the crag, I am looking forward to it. |
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Andy P. wrote:I tried the Penberthy last night on a whim at the gym, and even with just the foggy memory of the picture I saw in this thread I found it easy to tie first time - so I am now a believer it could work for me. I will do some experiments this weekend at the crag, I am looking forward to it. bearbreeder - this is a cool thread, can we start a biweekly bearbreeder column in which we get tech tips from you? I wish there were more people like you on the internet spreading knowledge instead of hoarding it. We could call it "bear's nifty tricks" or something!lol .. im a lazy 5.4 intraweb scammer ... so im probably not qualified one thing about the pemberthy ... there is a trick to tying it so that it holds on stiff ropes of the same size ... basically you wrap it around the rope going up and then wrap it once or twice back down the rope going down ... this locks the coils into place and significantly increases the holding power ill put up a post with pics later today or tmr with the details ... i might be headed out this weekend in the rain to practice basic rescue ... if i do make it out, im gonna test some of these knots under body weight with the good ole squamish mud on the ropes ;) |
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Andy P. wrote:bearbreeder - this is a cool thread, can we start a biweekly bearbreeder column in which we get tech tips from you? I wish there were more people like you on the internet spreading knowledge instead of hoarding it. We could call it "bear's nifty tricks" or something!I second that motion! Bearbreeder, Ive learned a few things from you already and find that even when discussing a technique I know, I still am given something to think about with the endless little interesting thing to know and something to keep in mind side notes. I really do appreciate it. |