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The Big Pucker
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 2.7 from 58
votes
Routes in Discovery Wall
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Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Entrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fly By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forty Days of Rain T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gladiator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jorgie's Continuation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Jorgie's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jorgie's On Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Labor of Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Passover T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pillbox Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Plague T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Racing Stripes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Roof, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Slot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stupendous Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zippity Do Da S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Tom Davis, David Rubine 1988 |
| Page Views: | 3,359 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jul 11, 2003 · Updates |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
This route is the second bolted line right of Portent, and is easily identified because the first bolt is about 35 feet off the ground.
Climb up to a 5.10a angled crack (gear) that leads to the first bolt using some awkward jams. After the first bolt a couple of pieces protection should be placed in the crack before pulling a 5.10d bulge. Missing this move is NOT fun (my shoulder still hurts, I scared the hell out of some hikers when Jared let me down bleeding profusely) due to the slab that sits below this move.
After the first bulge, climb a second 10d bulge past three more bolts. A hidden hold makes this section reasonable. after the last bolt the climbing is a little run out, but easy. The top anchors are shared with The Wet Kiss (5.9).
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