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Are you a risk taker? An inquiry about a climber stereotype

Original Post
William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

I have a lot I'd like to say, explore and learn about risk assessment (relative/personal) and taking the risk (actually putting myself knowingly into a high risk situation and experiencing the heightened state).

One method, one of many, for me to learn more is by hearing/learning your experiences and thoughts. So...

Do you fit the stereotype of a high risk loving (always taking risks) climber?

Do you consider yourself a high risk taker even off the rock? Do you drive fast, do you gamble, do you work high on your house unanchored, do you take risky paths in regards to your relationships, do you have a lot of unprotected sex with constantly different partners, etc, etc.

is climbing a well protected (can sew up comfortably) moderate safer than driving on an average American road?

Is climbing traditionally (on gear) already risky even if a vertical (safe fall) route on BOMBER stone that can be SEWN up? Lets say you do have an adequate enough rack to sew the climb up and you do place a piece of gear every body length (even if not needed just for argument sake). Basically is every trad leader a high risk taking individual? every sport leader?

I do enjoy putting myself in high risk (relative) situations (run outs, soloing, highballs etc) sometimes. Not every day. Outside of these times Im a low risk dude. I drive the speed limit, I arrive at work early, I dont drink in excess, I dont go picking fights, I tie in when cleaning my chimney, etc

My family and non-climbing friends see me as a "daredevil" level risk taker and its just not true (99% of the time) outside of some calculated moments throughout the year.

thank you.

doug rouse · · Denver, CO. · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 660

Everything in context. A beginning climber may see an ascent of a V5 highball a risk, where an experienced climber may view it as run of the mill. In all fields, you'll have those who have many years in, and may appear to be taking high risks..when in fact a higher-level of skill is all that is on display..Personally, running through trees on my snowboard at a high rate of speed, feels riskier than highballing...so many variables..but it also has to do with comfort with risk as well...good question.

Alicia Sokolowski · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,781

I do risk assessment professionally (albeit from an anti terrorist finance and anti money laundering perspective). I often hear people who do neither (risk assessment nor rock climbing) state how "ironic" it is that I enjoy both. I actually think they go together very naturally. I would never consider myself an unreasonable risk taker, and I think the average climber is the same. We mitigate the risk through information, equipment, training, and understanding of our gear, the elements, the rock itself and physics.

Just look at how much people quibble over ratings, whether the plus is deserved or not, the FA rating v. the consensus, where is it sandbagged, where is it soft… The scale itself is very telling. Snowboarding, my other primary sport, has basically four ratings if you are in bounds. Few sports present the participant with such a granular assessment of difficulty right at the outset. You aren’t a crazy risk taker just because you climb so long as you use the mitigants appropriate to your skill level and the challenge before you.

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

Alicia thanks for posting! This site is so heavily male its nice to have a woman partake. I enjoyed your post and think its cool that you assess risk for a living. interesting.

doug and Jake. Im right with you two.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I think most people who climb aren't risk takers. Most of guys and gals that went out climbing this past weekend have careers and families to think about. I believe there are climbers out there that love to take risks. For most of them climbing is life. Those elite few out there climbing what most of us say are crazy (which is subjective) most likely don't have careers or family to take care of.

I think some people start climbing because of the stereotype. Everybody wants to be a badass. It explains why so many watch The Sopranos and Breaking Bad.

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415

I don't own a stick clip.

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

interesting Kirby you stated that some became climbers (doing whatever it takes to fit/identify with the image of climber) because of the stereotype it has. maybe it made/makes them feel good to be seen as a "badass" or maybe the risk was genuine "fuel" that motivated them to become a better climb and get to know themself. or maybe both?

interesting man.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Stoned, Shit, that's what got me into all this. The snow was bulletproof in Banff one year so I looked for something else. I found ice climbing and it scared me so I did what I could to keep at it. Ice climbing.. there's a calculated risk!..

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90
Locker wrote:I have my own theory for MANY of us and it is abbreviated as ADHD.
Awesome +1
I'd put climbing more in the Autism category... but either way it's definitely a spectrum disorder and attracts certain personalities accordingly.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Never was a risky driver, always defensive and alert on the road. But as a climber, yes I guess I took many risks over the years. Hard to admit my age has done me in, but since injuries take so long to heal now, I've given up any true risk in climbing. Seldom trad anymore.,,,don't even want to take long falls on sport routes, so I've gone retro-grade in my efforts on the rocks. Ankles and knees too messed up to even consider bouldering at all. But did plenty of mountaineering solo routes, took long risky falls at times, recovered and got by with few injuries over 40 some years until recently.

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

Nice Woodchuck and Brent, thanks for adding to.

Woodchuck you said you did solo mountaineering. off topic question: your favorite route done solo and on what Mountain in what range?

You mentioned Woodchuck something that applies to us all: as we age (relative as to at which point this happens) we climb easier/less risky routes. Our priorities shift I assume and/or we become experienced enough to now take an honest assessment and maybe we arent comfortable taking the same level of risk we had been. Or maybe 1000+ other reasons why. Good points man.

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

I enjoy taking some risks. I try not to die, but I enjoy climbing R rated routes and soloing. I like the mental challenge of runouts and climbing confidently high above gear. I choose riskier investments and I enjoy poker.

I'd say I try to mitigate risk as much as possible and I don't have a death wish, but my risk tolerance is certainly much higher than other people I know, and I enjoy calculated risk.

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

Not a risk taker as much as I'm adventurous.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Im just sick and tired of long recovery times these days,,and the fact I don't work hard enough to stay in shape in the first place. The result is I still enjoy being out there, but just don't push hard anymore for any numbers or whatever. Just have healthy fun, no more injuries please.

QdeBees · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 5

My theory is that climbing actually attracts the risk-averse, who also occupy a position high on the OCDC spectrum. These people, having a high need to exert great control over their environment (or illusion of same), seek an activity that requires suppression of brain-stem reflexes. The ultimate control.

FYI: in additional to trembling redpoints, I can also not blink for days, and breathe like a meditating Tibetan monk. And not speak for months on end. Really.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
QdeBees wrote:My theory is that climbing actually attracts the risk-averse, who also occupy a position high on the OCDC spectrum. These people, having a high need to exert great control over their environment (or illusion of same), seek an activity that requires suppression of brain-stem reflexes. The ultimate control.
Probably true. If you need more evidence of rampant OCD, just look at any thread regarding hangboarding in the Training forum.
Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 13,678

Woodchuck, I'm totally with you. Injuries that used to take a month now take three. The risks have escalated.

On the other hand, I'm a much better judge of when I'm having a good day than I used to be.

Rajiv Ayyangar · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 220

Like most sport climbers, I'm especially risk-averse on the spectrum of climbers, and maybe even more risk-averse than skiers, surfers, and other extreme sports. Or at least, all these other sports seem way more dangerous to me than sport climbing. I've been in a few sketchy situations over the years, and I appreciate the heightened clarity that can come with mastering oneself in high-consequence (though low risk) situations, but I don't seek them out. To me the excitement lies in the line, the movement, and the challenge.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Complicated topic. For personal assessments, my litmus test has always been driving (one of the riskiest things we all do and accept). Is proposition "X" on a whole, riskier or less risky than the drive to go do it. Obviously a subjective judgment call, but a good reference point.

Most climbing, kayaking, diving, etc when done properly and not at the cutting edge, falls below that line.

As others have said as well, my personal "envelope" has also changed over time. With the birth of my daughters, things previously acceptable are no longer considered, and would simply be irresponsible.

cassondra l · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 335
Locker wrote:I have my own theory for MANY of us and it is abbreviated as ADHD.
I have ADHD and I climb. I suspect is has something to do with the pursuit of stimulation the activity of climbing provides for those of us who have this condition. Climbing is frequently listed in books on the subject of ADHD among the other "high risk" highly stimulating activities that are typical for people whose brains operate in that fashion....personally it helps to calm me down and keep me focused.
ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410
Jake Jones wrote: Now, to non-climbers, even top-roping is a risk which is sometimes laughable to the rest of us.
One thing I find interesting about risk is the idea of perceived versus real risk. A new climber top-roping might perceive it as being very risky/dangerous when they are actually very safe. I'm sure all of us have also seen people doing something extremely risky/dangerous, when they actually think they are being safe (lack of knowledge?).

Interesting topic.

For me, I think I have a pretty low risk tolerance in climbing. I try really hard to differentiate real versus perceived risk (sometimes if I find myself scared, I find it is the perceived risk that is getting to me and once I recognize that I can relax a bit), and then work to mitigate the real risks the best that I can.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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