Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Razor Back
|
Arrogant Bastard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Bayonet T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
British Steel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Chop the Hogs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
Claymore T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
Coppertone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Cut to Pieces S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Damascus TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Darkened World T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Dastardly Rascal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Deadhead TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Dirty Rotten Scoundrel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Flash of the Blade T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Hurt, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Incision T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Lacerator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Marmot-Back Crack T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
|
|
Metalhead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Slasher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Somewhere in Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 310 ft (94 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Bryan Law, Bob Crawford, Linda Jarit, and Greg Barnes, 2008/2009 |
| Page Views: | 2,146 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | J. Albers on Sep 28, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Great route that is slightly harder than some of its neighbors to the left. Pitch one is documented in the newest SuperTopo guide for the area, but the climb actually continues onward for 3 pitches total.
Pitch 1: Climb 25 feet of great, easy knobs to the first bolt. Next, friction left and a bit upwards for 10-12 feet and look up at the next 100+ feet of sustained smeding and friction (5.10+). Awesome. The bolt line will lead you towards a tree and mantel to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor.
NOTE: Please try NOT to use the beautiful little tree as you mantel onto the first pitch belay ledge. Instead, hand traverse the ledge under the tree, rather than climbing over and behind it, and please run the rope under it as you move past to the belay. (5.10+; 12 bolts; 140 feet).
Pitch 2: To the left of the belay, climb about 25 feet up an easy ramp to the first of five bolts that protect the 5.11b section of the pitch. Use a long sling on the fifth bolt to reduce rope drag. There is a gear placement in a horizontal crack a little ways above the fifth bolt and then a short easy section up a ramp to the left that leads to the sixth bolt. Continue past four more bolts and a 5.10c mantel. After the last bolt there is a runout to a nice belay ledge up and to the right. (5.11b; 10 bolts plus small cams).
Pitch 3: Climb up and left from the belay past four bolts to a belay ledge. (5.10c; 4 bolts).
All belay anchors have two bolts with chains. Three rappels with two ropes to the base.
Location
Metalhead is on the middle-left side of the continuous, nice white slab that forms the right side of Razor Back. The route begins almost directly below the tree in the picture of the route I posted. The 'Razor Back, right side routes' beta photo (courtesy of B. Law) provides an overview of the wall that shows all of the belay locations for the route.
4 Comments