Bad Couple of Days on Longs Peak
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JLP wrote:I think the 5.5 grade is correct and only applies to 2-3 moves at the exit, the rest is 4th class. Eli Helmuth wrote:IMHO The North Chimney is 80% 5th classNot sure who JLP is, but he doesn't know the definition of 5th class. Way more than 2 or 3 moves of the North Chimney is 5th class. Eli is a very well respected local stud climbing guide. Having approached the diamond by the north chimney 15 to 20 times, I concur with Eli that the North Chimney contains a lot of fifth class climbing. |
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I've been up the North Chimney maybe 10-12 times. No expert but I also feel like it's by far the best way there. |
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nicelegs, |
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It wasn't intentional Tank. It had been a few years since I'd been on the D and was tired and ready to start moving up, so I did. I was far enough up before I figured it out that I just kept moving. It's definitely directly below Broadway as you said. |
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I simuled Fields Chimney once and didn't find it too bad either in terms of loose rocks or difficult climbing. I don't think there were any parties above us on broadway yet though. If people are knocking shit off broadway they need to re-evaluate what they hell they are doing up there. A little carefulness goes a long way, and you can avoid killing someone. |
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Tank Evans wrote:The North Chimney is totally safe on its own, other parties make it dangerous. If you have to rope up in the NC, don't climb the Diamond. Please just wait until you are comfortable soloing before attempting the Diamond, most parties that rope up in the NC just end up bailing anyways because they are to slow. Practice soloing the 1st flatiron, if you can do this comfortably you can solo the NCIf you're recommending that climbers solo the North Chimney in lieu of roping up, I disagree with your advice. If Christian had not been roped up, his fiancée would be visiting him in the morgue instead of the hospital. There will likely always be others on The Diamond and as you pointed out, other parties make the North Chimney dangerous. Best wishes for a speedy recovery, Christian. |
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looks like climbing mag deleted their fbook post ... |
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For those of you who are interested, I am collecting donations to help pay for Christians medical expenses, physical therapy and the lost income since he can't work (he just bought a house, has a car payment, etc). Feel free to share it. |
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Tank Evans wrote:The North Chimney is totally safe on its own, other parties make it dangerous. If you have to rope up in the NC, don't climb the Diamond. A rope endangers everyone below you because a) it directly dislodges rocks, b) you don't pay as much attention to what you are doing because you perceive that you are "safe", and c) you often climb the shitty chossy right side of the chimney to be able to get gear placements. Please just wait until you are comfortable soloing before attempting the Diamond, most parties that rope up in the NC just end up bailing anyways because they are to slow. Practice soloing the 1st flatiron, if you can do this comfortably you can solo the NC.I think the above advice about soloing the north chimney is bad advice for folks not comfortable soloing fifth class terrain, especially fifth class loose crappy rock terrain. For me, the climbing is too insecure, and there is too much objective danger, to solo the north chimney. I have free climbed the diamond seven or eight times. Once I soloed the north chimney - said later that day that I would never do that again. Of course to each their own, but the statement above that implies "I am not ready for the diamond" until I am willing to solo the north chimney is bunk in my opinion. I also take issue with the "bailing anyways because they are too slow" statement. The north chimney can be safely and quickly simul-climbed in 30 to 45 minutes by a reasonably strong party, leaving plenty of time for a successful climb of the diamond. I have seen plenty of studly climbers put away hard diamond routes who were roped in the north chimney. Climb On. Climb safe. And heal up, Christian. |
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bearbreeder wrote:looks like climbing mag deleted their fbook post ...A lot of people thought their jumping on the shaming bandwagon was poor form. |
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This is not meant to be advise, merely an opinion. |
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I don't have a lot to add to this stagnant thread, but I thought that (as the injured climber) I should post. |
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I think everyone is just happy as hell that you are going to recover and climb again. Best of luck! |
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Glad to hear you will recover Christian. |
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Wishing you a speedy recovery and cheers you will pull through. |
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Christian, out of curiosity were you simulclimbing or pitching it out? And had you climbed the north Chimney before? |
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David Appelhans wrote:Christian, out of curiosity were you simulclimbing or pitching it out? And had you climbed the north Chimney before?We started simulclimbing with my partner in the lead. Around two thirds of the way up the chimneys he put in a belay because the rope drag was getting really bad. I swung leads past him, the plan was for him to belay me until the rope came tight, then pull the anchor and climb with me until we reached Broadway. I'm normally comfortable soloing easy fifth class. We elected to simulclimb because of the lose rock. I generally feel like choss deserves a rope and a belay. I hadn't climbed the North Chimney before. I've climbed some winter mixed routes on Longs before, but this was my first attempt on the Diamond. |
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Christian, I'm glad you are recovering nicely but I'm astonished by the $400k medical bill that you have racked up. Is this going to be paid for by your medical insurance or is this in addition to whatever your insurance policy covers? Do you not have medical insurance? Are they not covering this accident? |
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I didn't have medical insurance, but my understanding is that a lot of policies don't cover rock climbing or "adventure sports". KevinK wrote:Christian, I'm glad you are recovering nicely but I'm astonished by the $400k medical bill that you have racked up. Is this going to be paid for by your medical insurance or is this in addition to whatever your insurance policy covers? Do you not have medical insurance? Are they not covering this accident? |
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Tank Evans wrote:nicelegs, The North Chimney is totally safe on its own, other parties make it dangerous. If you have to rope up in the NC, don't climb the Diamond. A rope endangers everyone below you because a) it directly dislodges rocks, b) you don't pay as much attention to what you are doing because you perceive that you are "safe", and c) you often climb the shitty chossy right side of the chimney to be able to get gear placements. Please just wait until you are comfortable soloing before attempting the Diamond, most parties that rope up in the NC just end up bailing anyways because they are to slow. Practice soloing the 1st flatiron, if you can do this comfortably you can solo the NC.I can pitch the North Chimney out with a partner faster then I can solo it with a partner. The rope doesn't slow me down, In fact it speeds things up in that situation for me. If you think that all the things you claim are dangerous about using a rope in the NC are true, then I might speculate that your rope management skills and technical systems could use some work. If folks are gonna simul climb in the NC with a running belay, I really don't think that is a bad thing, but IMO the terrain is not the place to stretch out your rope and be 60meters apart. Just not the right application in that terrain to be that far apart for so many reasons. |