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Bad Couple of Days on Longs Peak

Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0
JLP wrote:I think the 5.5 grade is correct and only applies to 2-3 moves at the exit, the rest is 4th class.
Eli Helmuth wrote:IMHO The North Chimney is 80% 5th class
Not sure who JLP is, but he doesn't know the definition of 5th class. Way more than 2 or 3 moves of the North Chimney is 5th class.

Eli is a very well respected local stud climbing guide.

Having approached the diamond by the north chimney 15 to 20 times, I concur with Eli that the North Chimney contains a lot of fifth class climbing.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I've been up the North Chimney maybe 10-12 times. No expert but I also feel like it's by far the best way there.

Last summer, I started on a chimney way left of the north chimney. It went to broadway and probably took us about an hour of simuling to do.

However, it was quite a bit harder. Mostly 5.6 with occasional 5.9 or 5.10- moves though mostly easier. It didn't take as much gear. I believe that there was always 1 or 2 pieces between my climber and I but I can't be certain.

We were the only people anywhere near it, we basically topped out at the start of D7, and it was pretty free of loose rock (still alpine). If you are absolutely certain you won't fall on 5.9, do it. If you feel like pitching it out and belaying, skip it, it'd take longer than climbing the Diamond.

Tank Evans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 135

nicelegs,

if you are referring to Field's Chimney, which I think you are, that is a very bad idea and you were lucky. Field's has a far higher danger of rockfall than the NC because anything that moves on broadway falls down Fields. People don't pay attention when walking around broadway and routinely send stuff rolling off. I spend ~10days on the Big D every summer and can't think of a day when I have'nt seen someone send something down on their way to Pervertical et. al.

Here is my 2 cents.

The North Chimney is totally safe on its own, other parties make it dangerous. If you have to rope up in the NC, don't climb the Diamond. A rope endangers everyone below you because a) it directly dislodges rocks, b) you don't pay as much attention to what you are doing because you perceive that you are "safe", and c) you often climb the shitty chossy right side of the chimney to be able to get gear placements.

Please just wait until you are comfortable soloing before attempting the Diamond, most parties that rope up in the NC just end up bailing anyways because they are to slow. Practice soloing the 1st flatiron, if you can do this comfortably you can solo the NC.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

It wasn't intentional Tank. It had been a few years since I'd been on the D and was tired and ready to start moving up, so I did. I was far enough up before I figured it out that I just kept moving. It's definitely directly below Broadway as you said.

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

I simuled Fields Chimney once and didn't find it too bad either in terms of loose rocks or difficult climbing. I don't think there were any parties above us on broadway yet though. If people are knocking shit off broadway they need to re-evaluate what they hell they are doing up there. A little carefulness goes a long way, and you can avoid killing someone.

Tank, I totally agree the NC is safe on its own and parties should wait until they are comfortable soloing the NC before attempting the Diamond. I used to solo the NC until an accident just like this one happened a few years ago. However, The problem with soloing the NC is Christian's scenario. If he were soloing I presume he wouldn't have stopped falling, and he'd be dead. Same thing happened a couple years ago, the guy was hurt really bad but didn't die. He was simuling.

Cindy Mitchell · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 65
Tank Evans wrote:The North Chimney is totally safe on its own, other parties make it dangerous. If you have to rope up in the NC, don't climb the Diamond. Please just wait until you are comfortable soloing before attempting the Diamond, most parties that rope up in the NC just end up bailing anyways because they are to slow. Practice soloing the 1st flatiron, if you can do this comfortably you can solo the NC
If you're recommending that climbers solo the North Chimney in lieu of roping up, I disagree with your advice.

If Christian had not been roped up, his fiancée would be visiting him in the morgue instead of the hospital.

There will likely always be others on The Diamond and as you pointed out, other parties make the North Chimney dangerous.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery, Christian.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

looks like climbing mag deleted their fbook post ...

Rayna · · Arvada, CO · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 90

For those of you who are interested, I am collecting donations to help pay for Christians medical expenses, physical therapy and the lost income since he can't work (he just bought a house, has a car payment, etc). Feel free to share it.

gfwd.at/1bRHcIb

Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0
Tank Evans wrote:The North Chimney is totally safe on its own, other parties make it dangerous. If you have to rope up in the NC, don't climb the Diamond. A rope endangers everyone below you because a) it directly dislodges rocks, b) you don't pay as much attention to what you are doing because you perceive that you are "safe", and c) you often climb the shitty chossy right side of the chimney to be able to get gear placements. Please just wait until you are comfortable soloing before attempting the Diamond, most parties that rope up in the NC just end up bailing anyways because they are to slow. Practice soloing the 1st flatiron, if you can do this comfortably you can solo the NC.
I think the above advice about soloing the north chimney is bad advice for folks not comfortable soloing fifth class terrain, especially fifth class loose crappy rock terrain. For me, the climbing is too insecure, and there is too much objective danger, to solo the north chimney.

I have free climbed the diamond seven or eight times. Once I soloed the north chimney - said later that day that I would never do that again. Of course to each their own, but the statement above that implies "I am not ready for the diamond" until I am willing to solo the north chimney is bunk in my opinion.

I also take issue with the "bailing anyways because they are too slow" statement. The north chimney can be safely and quickly simul-climbed in 30 to 45 minutes by a reasonably strong party, leaving plenty of time for a successful climb of the diamond. I have seen plenty of studly climbers put away hard diamond routes who were roped in the north chimney.

Climb On. Climb safe. And heal up, Christian.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
bearbreeder wrote:looks like climbing mag deleted their fbook post ...
A lot of people thought their jumping on the shaming bandwagon was poor form.
1rsties4life Carnes · · CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 235

This is not meant to be advise, merely an opinion.

I would never rope up in the North Chimney due to the dangers of causing possible rock fall with the rope. I also am not going to criticize anyone who prefers to do so as long as they don't cause an accident like the one that happened.

I think there are 2 mind sets today in climbing. The old school mind set of "soloing the NC is a credential checker for the day", and new school mind set of "lets rope up and simul-climb it quickly". Both work fine if at the end of day nobody gets hurt.

I'm not going to say that you need to be able to solo the NC to climb The Big D, but I will say that I have had days on the wall on routes that merge into others with parties on them that had no business being there and were frightening to be around.

As our activity gains popularity this will become more and more common unless the old are willing to take the new under their wings and out of the gyms to train them in the real craft of TRAD.

Christian Mason · · Westminster CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 161

I don't have a lot to add to this stagnant thread, but I thought that (as the injured climber) I should post.

One of the hardest things for me has been not knowing what caused the accident. A falling rock knocking me out seems like the most logical explanation, but I really have no idea. I had always thought of myself as a safe and reasonably conservative alpine climber.

I remember swapping leads with my partner about two thirds of the way up the North Chimney. I remember placing the #1 Camalot that I fell on and continuing up around 20 feet to another ledge. The rock quality was pretty poor there, and after looking at the potential fall I started looking for something solid enough to place reliable gear. That's my last clear memory. I can remember bits and pieces of the next three days, but it's very disjointed.

I ended up with two skull fractures, six broken ribs, a punctured lung, a broken left scapula, a broken neck (fracture of c1-2) and broken back (t5 and t6).
Amazingly, I don't appear to have any nerve damage. While I'll have a fairly long recovery, I should be able to recover more or less fully.

I really appreciate a fantastic response from the people around me. I think the outcome probably would have been very different had a bunch of factors not lined up in my favor (NPS personal on scene on longs already, knowledgeable first responders climbing near me, etc..)

I'm happy to answer any questions that I can.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

I think everyone is just happy as hell that you are going to recover and climb again. Best of luck!

Norse Force · · Nederland, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Glad to hear you will recover Christian.

Justin Tomlinson · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 270

Wishing you a speedy recovery and cheers you will pull through.

David Appelhans · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

Christian, out of curiosity were you simulclimbing or pitching it out? And had you climbed the north Chimney before?

Christian Mason · · Westminster CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 161
David Appelhans wrote:Christian, out of curiosity were you simulclimbing or pitching it out? And had you climbed the north Chimney before?
We started simulclimbing with my partner in the lead. Around two thirds of the way up the chimneys he put in a belay because the rope drag was getting really bad.

I swung leads past him, the plan was for him to belay me until the rope came tight, then pull the anchor and climb with me until we reached Broadway.

I'm normally comfortable soloing easy fifth class. We elected to simulclimb because of the lose rock. I generally feel like choss deserves a rope and a belay.

I hadn't climbed the North Chimney before.
I've climbed some winter mixed routes on Longs before, but this was my first attempt on the Diamond.
runout · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

Christian, I'm glad you are recovering nicely but I'm astonished by the $400k medical bill that you have racked up. Is this going to be paid for by your medical insurance or is this in addition to whatever your insurance policy covers? Do you not have medical insurance? Are they not covering this accident?

Christian Mason · · Westminster CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 161

I didn't have medical insurance, but my understanding is that a lot of policies don't cover rock climbing or "adventure sports".

I moved out here (leaving a stable university job) a few years ago and started over as a freelancer. Since I'm a contractor I don't have health insurance through my work.

I'd been planning on getting a high deductible plan for precisely this type of catastrophic accident. With the Colorado exchange opening on October 1st, I decided to wait until then. Obviously this was a huge mistake, and one I accept responsibility for.

The hospital has worked with us a little bit and now the bill is looking more like 275-300K.
My fiance started a support fund. She also posts updates on these semi often. Here are two links:
Give Forward
You Caring

On another note, I've been completely blown away by all the people that have helped. I didn't really expect the support (both emotional and financial) that I've received. At the risk of sounding cheesy, if there's a positive side to this accident, it's been that it's really changed my opinion of people for the better.

KevinK wrote:Christian, I'm glad you are recovering nicely but I'm astonished by the $400k medical bill that you have racked up. Is this going to be paid for by your medical insurance or is this in addition to whatever your insurance policy covers? Do you not have medical insurance? Are they not covering this accident?
JPVallone · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 195
Tank Evans wrote:nicelegs, The North Chimney is totally safe on its own, other parties make it dangerous. If you have to rope up in the NC, don't climb the Diamond. A rope endangers everyone below you because a) it directly dislodges rocks, b) you don't pay as much attention to what you are doing because you perceive that you are "safe", and c) you often climb the shitty chossy right side of the chimney to be able to get gear placements. Please just wait until you are comfortable soloing before attempting the Diamond, most parties that rope up in the NC just end up bailing anyways because they are to slow. Practice soloing the 1st flatiron, if you can do this comfortably you can solo the NC.
I can pitch the North Chimney out with a partner faster then I can solo it with a partner. The rope doesn't slow me down, In fact it speeds things up in that situation for me. If you think that all the things you claim are dangerous about using a rope in the NC are true, then I might speculate that your rope management skills and technical systems could use some work.

If folks are gonna simul climb in the NC with a running belay, I really don't think that is a bad thing, but IMO the terrain is not the place to stretch out your rope and be 60meters apart. Just not the right application in that terrain to be that far apart for so many reasons.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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