Type: Sport, 35 ft (11 m)
FA: Eric Scully
Page Views: 2,863 total · 22/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Sep 14, 2013
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

King line of the Goosehead and the 2nd established 5.14- on Mount Lemmon. The story of the first ascent is quite epic and is recounted by Andrew Bisharat in his article "Restoring Eric Scully".

Immediately difficult moves lead into a viciously powerful boulder problem around bolt 4 involving slopers, a 2 finger crimp and an enormous throw to a jug. Clip bolt 5 and fight through more thin and powerful moves to the chains. A discerning eye will notice that, outside of two holds reinforced with glue, this route is all natural (a rarity for hard climbs in the Tucson area).

No longer unrepeated. After many years without a repeat, The Morgue saw a second and third ascent in January 2014.

Location Suggest change

To the right of Death Warmed Over on the west face of the Goosehead. This is the line listed as "8. Project" in Squeezing the Lemmon II.

Protection Suggest change

5 or 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains. The first two bolts are meant to be clipped off the ground with the first serving to keep the rope out of the way.

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