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A Boy and His Arête
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.1 from 9
votes
Routes in Lower Buttress
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A Boy and His Arête T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bear Hug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Black Opal T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Blue Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Farce (aka Novitiate's Delight) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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For Real Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pillar of Society S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Surrealistic Direct Knob Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Eric Gable & Petch Pietrolungo, 1996 |
| Page Views: | 1,600 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Nevius on Sep 2, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
An adventure climb, for sure. Climb the sustained, sometimes-clumbly face just to the right of the arête. Keep your head on when pulling on hollow flakes. At the first big roof, traverse to the left side of the arête (into the left-facing corner). Get a few good jams before traversing back right onto the face at a prominent horn on the arête. Clip a bolt and climb up the face on 5.6R territory before reaching a second roof. Again, traverse left over the arête and onto a slightly overhung face for a few moves (really, only a few, don't try climbing up the overhung face too far), at which point you swing BACK onto the face and make some easy moves to the chains.
Rap (barely, with rope stretch) with a 70m rope, or (probably a better idea) with two ropes.
Rap (barely, with rope stretch) with a 70m rope, or (probably a better idea) with two ropes.
Photos
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