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Petzl Nomic bolts really tight

Original Post
Kerr Adams · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 155

So i just picked up some Nomics and the two bolts on the head are ridiculously tight. I am actually worried i may strip the bolt head. Is this normal?

Thanks!

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Use impact i.e. hit the wrench with a hammer, rather than steady force. The latter will shear bolts that would otherwise loosen if you can get a good whack on them.

Ben Brotelho · · Albany, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 520

I noticed my Quarks with the same head as the Nomic were tightened like crazy when I replaced the picks for the first time, as well.

Tom-onator · · trollfreesociety · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 790

Most manufacturers rely on specific torque tolerances for tightening screws and bolts. This protects the bolt from shearing and the product from damage.
With the repetitive violent impacts that ice tools see, I wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't a dab of loctite on the threads or possibly an airplane lock washer style nut to prevent accidental loosening.
I would suggest contacting Petzl for their recommendations to loosen the bolt before impacting a hammer to the wrench.
Using a quality made, precisely sized tool is also paramount to removing 'stuck' bolts or you'll risk stripping the head.
-Think Snap On or Craftsman vs Harbor Freight.
Good luck and safe climbing!

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

A vice and short breaker bar works best. Otherwise, set the tool head down with the pick facing between your legs. With your left hand holding the hand grip place the allen key parallel to the floor and press down. The tip of the pick and your hand holding the grip should be enough support. For more leverage slide a box end wrench over the end of the allen key.

Petzl does over torque the bolts but the lock washers are what make the bolts so hard to break free.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

As per my conversation with Petzl's QA manager last year, "The Quark bolts that fasten the pick to the head of the axe are torqued to 15 newton meters +/-. "

He also sent me this image:

Changing bolts on a Petzl ice tool

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Jon H wrote:As per my conversation with Petzl's QA manager last year, "The Quark bolts that fasten the pick to the head of the axe are torqued to 15 newton meters +/-. " He also sent me this image:
The breaking weight of those lock washers is a lot greater than 15nm, probably closer to 50nm.
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Look at that photo and ask what's going to happen to the guy's knuckles if the bolt gets very loose all of a sudden (or the Allen wrench slips or breaks). Pushing toward sharp, jagged edges is asking for trouble.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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