Favorite Big Wall Bivy Sac

The title says it all. What is your favorite bivy sac while big wall climbing. (i.e. durability, waterproofness, compact-ability, tie-in point, etc.)

So far i'm leaning towards the Black Diamond Big Wall Hooped Bivy.

Thanks!

I think the consensus is that the best option is the BD Big Wall bivy. Too expensive for me, all that I've owned has been the Outdoor Research Highland Bivy, but it has certainly kept me dry in many storms on the ground (never had to use a bivy on the one wall I've attempted so far).

I'm not a fan of my BD Big Wall bivy.

Problems:

1) Envelope entry is hard to get into, especially when on a portaledge.

2) Hoop is just a bendy wire that I have to futz with at least a couple times every night to try and keep the fabric off my face and a vent for breathing open.

3) I've never ended using the pass thru tie in thingy for anything other than clipping the sack in while setting up and tearing down. I don't know anyone who does. I only see it useful if you are on a decent ledge. If there is bad weather that pitches you off the portaledge, a string of slings, biners, all wound up in a bivy sack would making getting back up to your kit a near impossibility.

Try to find a decent sack with a diagonal or edge zipper to making getting into it decent. If needed sew on a clip-in loop and seam grip the heck out of it. Sorry I don't have a recommended brand.

Edit: Good discussion here:
Supertopo Bivy Sack Discussion

Best Bang for your buck.

ebay.com/itm/GI-SURPLUS-BDU…

Full zip, R or L and comes in multiple lengths.

Bomber as it gets. I have spent multiple nights in bad weather in one of these, both stealth bivies, and on the wall.

Not the lightest, but you are on a wall...

You can sew your own tie in point if you want to, and seam seal the opening. I have never had the need, as you can just extend your leash up through the pullover portion around the head.

I've got a brand new Bibler big wall bivy I'd like to sell.
$150 plus shipping. (Black Diamond's cost $239).

Reviews for the gore-tex surplus bivy seem to outweigh the reviews on the BD Big Wall Bivy. Everyone says its super waterproof and durable. Seems like a no brainer; especially considering the price difference. Thanks for the suggestions.

Grave digging this thread... On the topic of the BD Big Wall Bivy:

The Delrin pole is made from formaldehyde, which will offgas (more in summer or daylight).

The ToddTex fabric is also coated in a fire retardant. To me, this is retarded. What are you doing inside of that bivy when so hiigh up? Oh yea, well just be careful with the lighter.

You may not be concerned with such things, but I am. Metabolic elimination of unwanted wastes costs energy and damages systems along the way. I have other things I plan on dying of.

I am looking at the OR Alpine Bivy instead, but the surplus price would leave $200 in gear or beer money. Thanks for the info.

I've tried a lot over the years on a lot of walls, and my favorite is the Integral Designs Salathe ( integraldesigns.com/product…). You can run the rope out either side, sit up and cook in it while raining, has a compact/compressible face hoop, super light weight, etc.

Are we talking about a supplemental to a portaledge fly, or for routes where you're not bringing a ledge? If you're bringing a ledge, I would just bring the cheapest bivy you can find since it's just a backup anyway. I use the SOL emergency bivy as it's light, small and most importantly, cheap.

The double bivy sac!! Duh!!