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Surrender to the Air
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
Routes in Dead Horse Crag
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Cage Monkeys T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Days Between, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Homage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One Hold Shy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Quartzite Jungle T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Surrender to the Air T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Touron Death March T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Woober's Day Out T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | BJ Sbarra & Mike Schneiter |
| Page Views: | 655 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Dec 7, 2007 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is probably the best route on the wall, and it's certainly my favorite.
Clip a bolt to protect the start and climb underneath the roof before traversing right to a "horn-like" feature. Above, place a couple of good pieces, including a #5 Camalot, before firing the crux. Make big moves on good holds through the crux before heading back left to a bolt. Finish by climbing up the face and into a left-facing corner and to a ledge above, where a two-bolt anchor is situated on the left wall.
Clip a bolt to protect the start and climb underneath the roof before traversing right to a "horn-like" feature. Above, place a couple of good pieces, including a #5 Camalot, before firing the crux. Make big moves on good holds through the crux before heading back left to a bolt. Finish by climbing up the face and into a left-facing corner and to a ledge above, where a two-bolt anchor is situated on the left wall.
Location
Underneath the steep roof in the center of this crag is some red, loose rock that looks like it came from the Fishers. Above this rock lies the great, hard quartzite and a bolt protecting the start of the climb. This is the 6th route from the left, although two routes share the same start. It's the 3rd route from the right.
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