Mountain Project Logo

Your first multi-pitch climb? What and where?

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60
The Stoned Master wrote:high exposure, super classic. did you lead any? whatd you think of "the move" as a rookie? I wonder if one day there wont be an average of 77 teams waiting to climb high exposure on an average nice weather weekend? how long will it be considered a uber classic. 2 weekends ago we ran into some dudes from brazil who came to the Gunks JUST for high exposure. thats cool and crazy, all that travel for the primary climb being a 3 pitch 5.6 (usually done in 2 pitches).
I lead the money pitch. I was climbing 5.11 sport when I started trad so 5.6 gunks was pretty within my abilities. To be honest once pulled the move it was fine, I was mostly mentally in my head because of everyone being like its so gnarly. The hype was greater than the actual commitment imoo. Thats not to say anything disparging of the route which is awesome! Though Directissma is much better imo :)
Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60
superkick wrote: I lead the money pitch. I was climbing 5.11 sport when I started trad so 5.6 gunks was pretty within my abilities. To be honest once pulled the move it was fine, I was mostly mentally in my head because of everyone being like its so gnarly. The hype was greater than the actual commitment imoo. Thats not to say anything disparging of the route which is awesome! Though Directissma is much better imo :)
though come to think of it, I had climbed pinnacle gulley before I ever did trad mutlipitch.. so my first real multipitch was a 3 pitch super classic mount washington waterfall gully, when I barely knew how to ice-climb. My friends are awesome jerks.
Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

The Nose

Just the Monitor Rock one though

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

superkick wrote: My friends are awesome jerks.

OR good friends? huh? look at you now.

chris: wheres monitor rock? you still multipitch climbing?

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

Prince of Darkness, Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rock. Got scared, fell on the 2nd pitch and had my partner lead the rest of the pitches. Memorable.

Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Monitor Rock is off of Independence Pass (close to twin lakes/Mt Elbert)

Since then I have done Gambit, Rewritten, and The Bulge at Eldo and Ancient Art in Moab. All of those have been follows, but I am hoping to lead the North Chimney of Castleton and/or Ancient Art in the near future.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45
"H" wrote:Whitney-Gilman on Cannon in NH back in 1993. I'll never forget it as I learned a valuable lesson that day and have never made the mistake since.
Cannon is indeed a giant exfoliating choss-onion, but for some reason I keep making the mistake of going climbing there.

My first multipitch was Condorphamine Addiction in Icicle Creek, WA (all bolts). My first multi, as well as my 2 partners (as well as their first rappel). Thanks to the guys who were rapping down the route and saved our n00b asses--they told us to tie our 3rd into the middle of the rope instead of tossing it down to him after every pitch (yeah I know, we were gonna die).
will smith · · boulder · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 35

Cozyhang on the Dome,then up to Cob rock for Empor, the to Castle Rock for Jackson Wall, quite a day and all in big Mtn boots and I've been hooked since the mid 70's.

Drew Hayes · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 110

My first was Fruit Loops at Rumbling Bald. I lead P1, my buddy lead P2, my girlfriend followed both pitches. Fun times, easy climbing and the anchors were bolted so it felt pretty stress free.

The next multipitch route I got on was Dopey Duck in Linville Gorge. That was the first time I lead something other than the first pitch of a route (he put me on the second pitch because it is FANTASTIC) and set a gear anchor. My god I had a blast on that one. I kept yelling "HOLY SHIT!!!" because I was having so much fun but my partner would yell up "WHATS WRONG??" I yelled back nothing wrong, just doing the most fun climbing ever.

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

drew and eric you still getting at it? wheres your home turf? where do you prefer?

will smith: since the 70s. where have you been since? do you still climb? where? do you use cams or are you a Henry Barber type? just curious.

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

My first multipitch was my first ever rock climb. In 1993 I followed up a 3 pitch 5.7 in Eldo called The Bastille Crack. It's been all downhill ever since.

Mike wand · · San Marcos · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 30

My first multi-pitch climb was my first lead. It was a sport 5.8 named buffilo brothers at El Cajon Mt. The guy i was climbing with asked if i wanted to lead the last pitch and i said hell yes. I had the time of my life. After that I was really hooked on climbing and learning trad. My first trad multi pitch was Cat and the Hat 5.6 at Red Rock a year latter. I lead every pitch. Trad is rad!!!!

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

Calypso in Eldorado. Second pitch scared the shit out of me; still not my favorite. My eyes were pretty much out on stalks all day. Then there was the downclimb...

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

The first two routes I ever climbed (1967)were both 4 pitch routes in Eldo.

The Wind Ridge on the Wind Tower and the West Buttress on the Bastille.

Travis Dustin · · Mexico Maine · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,665
The Stoned Master wrote:travis what route you taking your friend up to pop his multipitch cherry?
Not sure yet depends on the weather of course but with ideal conditions, Mt Webster slabs or something on Whitehorse
Evan Belknap · · Placitas, NM · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 65

On my first real trad lead, my mentor told me that it was my turn, and I climbed 13 pitches of 5.8 while he, um, how discreet do you have to be on this internet thing?

Brandon Conaway · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0

My first day climbing outside, was my first multi pitch, which was also my first trad climb! On top of this it was on a super classic route in Red Rocks, Nevada called Cat in the Hat (6 pitches). The next day was my second day outside and it was on Epinephrine (roughly 15 pitches). Even though Epinephrine turned into a bit of an epic, it was an absolute blast. its safe to say, I've been very spoiled haha

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

ed wright how old were you in 1967? what did you think of the scene at eldo at that time?

evan - 13 pitch 5.8s no joke for your first. where? what route?

brandon - what made that climb on epinephrine an epic?

Drew Hayes · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 110
The Stoned Master wrote:drew and eric you still getting at it? wheres your home turf? where do you prefer?
Trying to get at it when I have time. No real home turf since I'm in Charlotte and I have my pick of a lot of great rock within 3-4 hours. Lately all I have the urge to climb is Linville Gorge.
J. Kincaid · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Mine was only two weeks ago on Supercrack at Beauty Mountain (New River Gorge). I followed because I don't know how to place gear. It was super fun and exposed! My buddy an I saw the picture of it on the cover of climbing magazine that was in the guidebook and we said we just had to do it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
Post a Reply to "Your first multi-pitch climb? What and where?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.