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Girth Pillar
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British WI2 Steep Snow
Avg: 3.5 from 8
votes
Routes in Mt Stuart
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Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow |
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Direct North Ridge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Girth Pillar 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow |
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Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Easy Snow |
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Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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North Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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South Headwall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M4 |
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Stuart Range Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ulrich's Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow |
| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 11 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Kit Lewis & Jim Nelson (1983) |
| Page Views: | 6,374 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Jens 1 on Jun 29, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Description
Girth Pillar sits above the Ice Cliff Glacier on the northeast face of Stuart. Once at the top of the (steep) glacier, four easy pitches are required to reach the pillar itself, which offers three engaging pitches of crack climbing (the crux). The route then follows easy climbing to the main false summit above the glacier.
(Following beta on the pillar itself provided by John Plotz)
P1 (5.10, 130 ft) - Climb the nice but immediately steep handcrack, which jogs right at the top of the crack. Belay on a crappy, tiny ledge.
P2 (5.11-, 100ft) Shuffle straight left for about 10 feet to a thin crack. Finger jams lead to a good rest right before the crux. Jam the crack as it shoots out right on decent fingerlocks. There was a fixed stopper mid-crux that made life easier. Continue up the thin hands then hand crack to a better belay ledge.
P3 (5.10+, 120ft) Perfect hands on very steep and somewhat dirty rock lead to the top of the pillar. Beware of some very, very large loose blocks.
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