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Crystal Clear Arête
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.6 from 11
votes
Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)
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666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Class Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crack Wars T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crystal Clear Arête S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dopesmoker S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Leper Messiah S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sin after Sin S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Tenable S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Where the World Ends T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,529 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Challenging moves up the stellar arete. Begin on the large boulder, from where it's possible to hang the first 3 or 4 draws depending on how sweet your stick clipping skills are. Wake up your belayer and get ready to crank as the first four moves are probably the hardest. A good sidepull and a tweaky pocket lead to a slopey crimp, then steadily improving holds to a great double crimp at the 2nd bolt. Engage your imported Italian slippers and traverse out to the arete and a decent shake below the 4th bolt. Some more classic arete moves and a short dyno to a crimp out right lead up the arete. Around the 6th bolt traverse onto the left face via pockets and sharp crimps, up over a slight bulge and a horizontal crack just below the anchor.
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