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Fuck It Dude, Let's Go Bowling
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 0.3 from 3
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Routes in North Summit
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Fuck It Dude, Let's Go Bowling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Great Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hey, This Isn't Kamp's Ridge T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Kamp's Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Traverse to South Summit T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Turf War T WI3 M5 Mod. Snow |
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Valhalla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Valhallelujah! T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Peter Gram, Andrew Gram 6/12/04 |
| Page Views: | 2,628 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Jun 11, 2004 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This pitch is an undesirable variation to start Kamp's Ridge. Follow the approach listed to the turnoff, then carefully locate the obscure stream bed drainage coming down from the right. Do not go into the trees which are really thick up higher. Follow this drainage up to another drainage split on the left which has some tricky scrambling up polished rock. We climbed up some lower 5th class stuff on the rock to the right to avoid a slippery waterfall. From here, hike up on the right side of some slabs up to the start of Kamp's Ridge on the left.
The lower section of Kamp's Ridge has an obvious notch which should probably be avoided. So, I got psyched about a steep direct pitch to avoid this notch. Unfortunately, the direct start leads to nowhere, and doesn't connect to Kamp's Ridge. If you choose to do this route, start up easy slabby rock on a buttress right of Kamp's Ridge, separated by a steep nasty gully.
P1) Either rope up or solo this easy pitch for 170 feet or so to a tree which can be used for an anchor. 4th class
P2) Just above the belay tree, pass another small but very solid tree. Sling this, as pro above is tricky. Gain a shelf 10 feet above. A low green Alien placement protects a tricky bulgy move through this bad rock off the shelf. Head up easier rock (red alien placement) to a leftward traverse into a small hands crack (red Camalot sized crack). Jam the only good part of the route, then make a leftward traverse through easy dirty rock. A shelf is gained, with a giant tree up and left. Protect here low (#2 Camalot), then a steep, slabby face tops out at a bulge mantle with loose rock (maybe a couple moves of 5.9?). Reach the giant belay tree. 150 feet
Descent) Two single rope raps around trees (60m rope) gets one to a steep downclimb through a gully which leads back to the base. At this point, climbing this route didn't gain you any progress towards anything. So, in honor of the Big Lebowski, go bowling.
The lower section of Kamp's Ridge has an obvious notch which should probably be avoided. So, I got psyched about a steep direct pitch to avoid this notch. Unfortunately, the direct start leads to nowhere, and doesn't connect to Kamp's Ridge. If you choose to do this route, start up easy slabby rock on a buttress right of Kamp's Ridge, separated by a steep nasty gully.
P1) Either rope up or solo this easy pitch for 170 feet or so to a tree which can be used for an anchor. 4th class
P2) Just above the belay tree, pass another small but very solid tree. Sling this, as pro above is tricky. Gain a shelf 10 feet above. A low green Alien placement protects a tricky bulgy move through this bad rock off the shelf. Head up easier rock (red alien placement) to a leftward traverse into a small hands crack (red Camalot sized crack). Jam the only good part of the route, then make a leftward traverse through easy dirty rock. A shelf is gained, with a giant tree up and left. Protect here low (#2 Camalot), then a steep, slabby face tops out at a bulge mantle with loose rock (maybe a couple moves of 5.9?). Reach the giant belay tree. 150 feet
Descent) Two single rope raps around trees (60m rope) gets one to a steep downclimb through a gully which leads back to the base. At this point, climbing this route didn't gain you any progress towards anything. So, in honor of the Big Lebowski, go bowling.
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