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Mark E Dixon
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Sep 2, 2013
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Possunt, nec posse videntur
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 974
Not counting injuries, I can think of two for myself. First a crime of omission- I climbed just for fun for maybe 5 years and if I had only averaged one hangboard session every couple of weeks during this time, I could be wicked strong now. Second was this spring. I was making good progress working mostly on power. Strength/endurance and stamina have always been weak points for me, so I thought, hey I'm doing pretty well, I'll work on something new. So I did laps and CIR and hangboard sessions with 12 reps x 7 seconds on/3 off. Ran myself right into the ground, couldn't climb anything, then went on a 5 week vegetarian trek. Only now starting to get my strength back. Talk about ridiculous overtraining. Take home lessons for me- if it's working, think very hard before changing the plan, and if you're tired, maybe rest a little!
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Bill Czajkowski
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Sep 2, 2013
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Albuquerque, NM
· Joined Oct 2008
· Points: 20
It appears to me that your two lessons may contradict each other. I think I'd take away to train at a sustainable intensity.
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5.samadhi Süñyātá
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Sep 2, 2013
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asheville
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 40
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Tom Mulholland
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Sep 2, 2013
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#1 Cheese Producing State!
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 50
I spent the first 2 years or more getting strong, but not learning technique, then plateau-ed for long time. I don't know what people are doing these days, but judging by the amount of threads on MP alone about hangboard technique, I'll bet there's a lot of people making the same mistake.
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K Weber
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Sep 2, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2011
· Points: 15
What was your biggest training mistake?
Listening/reading stuff from people on the internet.
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5.samadhi Süñyātá
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Sep 3, 2013
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asheville
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 40
^ from the wrong people you mean? The internet is just a conduit to connect people together...it still comes with the caveat that the person you have connected with might be an idiot. Or she might not be.
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Steve Pulver
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Sep 3, 2013
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Williston, ND
· Joined Dec 2003
· Points: 460
top 3 might be not warming up training too much not training enough
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Woodchuck ATC
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Sep 3, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 3,280
Training? My mistake is ice cream, and not training.
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Morgan Patterson
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Sep 3, 2013
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NH
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 8,960
too much time on plastic... cronic tendon/ligament issues...
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Carlos Garcia
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Sep 3, 2013
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Truckee, CA
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 7,047
- Failing to stop doing the thing that caused any chronic injury. - Getting caught in a Monkey Paw Trap (i.e., not letting go of something small to gain a bigger goal). For example, being too performance oriented in a gym setting when my goal is to crank at the cliff or failing to take complete breaks from climbing. - Not periodizing appropriately. A novice climber program looks very different from an advanced climber program. Training cycles that were too short to see gains (typically strength) or too long which caused a decrease in performance (typically power endurance)
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camhead
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Sep 3, 2013
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Vandalia, Appalachia
· Joined Jun 2006
· Points: 1,240
thinking that training would cover for substandard technique.
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Mark Paulson
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Sep 3, 2013
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Raleigh, NC
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 141
Going to the gym and climbing whatever I feel like (especially new routes), instead of what will get me better, faster. Not always knowing what will get me better, faster. Spending 1-2 minutes at a time on a 24' indoor route to train for 80-100' outdoor routes that I will be on from 3-25 minutes.
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FrankPS
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Sep 3, 2013
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
My theory is, if you don't train, you won't make training mistakes. And my (lack of) climbing ability supports that. No train, no gain.
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M Mobley
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Sep 3, 2013
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Bar Harbor, ME
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 911
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StonEmber
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Sep 3, 2013
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Raleigh, NC
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 35
-Buying a membership at Carabiner's, CT? -Buildering
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kenr
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Sep 3, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 16,608
Not cultivating outdoor partners who would drag me into a trying climbs at harder grades. Having too much fun just out exploring spectacular big places with obvious easy features (narrow ridge, or easy cliff at the side of the sea). Instead of the subtle features of half-pitch crags, or outdoor bouldering. Ken
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Josh Villeneuve
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Sep 4, 2013
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Granby, CT
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 1,814
Not including injuries. Not resting enough. I find it hard to stick to a plan and listen to my body at the same time. Training things I am already good at, like crimp strength. Not doing enough movement/technique training. Not training power endurance and selecting climbs due to my lack of it.
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Carlos Garcia
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Sep 4, 2013
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Truckee, CA
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 7,047
Not realizing what my true climbing limiters are and designing my training to address them. For example, my fear of falling on a rope limits my ability to send and enjoy climbing. I should spend more time practicing falling than hang dogging.
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Ryan Palo
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Sep 4, 2013
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Bend, oregon
· Joined Aug 2006
· Points: 605
Way too many to recall. Here's one of my favs. Miscalculated the number of moves on a few of the walls at the Red. Assumed I was in for 40-60 sustained moves. Set up my PE cycle to account for that. Not a single route that I encountered was that sustained. Top was about half that.
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Nate Reno
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Sep 4, 2013
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Highlands Ranch, CO
· Joined Oct 2008
· Points: 156
What was the outcome of preparing for 40-60?
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Ryan Palo
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Sep 4, 2013
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Bend, oregon
· Joined Aug 2006
· Points: 605
Mushroom hammer stamping the day lights out of that place. Kidding. I was more prepared for something like To Bolt or Not To Be, where there's sustained movement that's not that hard for 60 some odd moves. Instead I found myself a little more desperate coming up on the rests on the routes I did there. Now Im a bit better about counting the moves between rests/on the routes I plan on trying before I enter the PE phase of my cycle.
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