Sport climbing options near Devil's Lake & Gen Beta on DL
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So my friend and I are going to be learning some anchoring stuff over by Devil's lake. After that's done, we'd like to stay around the area and do some climbing. Since we're relatively new to setting anchors, unless we can sling trees and boulders, we wouldnt wanna set a whole bunch of complicated anchors by ourselves unsupervised. So we're looking for other options in the area that aren't too far out for sport climbing/bolted top ropes. Any suggestions? |
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Nearest is Necadah/Petenwell about an hour away for sport. The camping up there at Buckhorn State Park is better than at DL, so we'll often climb the day at DL, drive up to Buckhorn, camp, and do second day at Petenwell. |
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Thanks a ton Craig. That sounds like a lovely plan. I guess I can try the same thing. So, I dont have a crash pad and both my partner and I dont boulder all that much (although I probably should). |
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there are plenty of climbs to throw a sling or two around a tree/boulder at the lake without much afterthought - why go somewhere else if you're already in the area? |
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Oh awesome. Thanks :). I've never climbed at DL. So I was wondering. |
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I'd recommend camping at Devils Lake if you can get a spot. It's good camping by my standards (but it is car camping). They have nonreservable walk up spots but you should have a backup plan in case they are full. |
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Justin1982z28 wrote:...Buckhorn was mosquito infested last year...Yeah, pretty much always is, but I'd say its worth it for the private beach and more secluded camping. Camping at DL makes me feel claustrophobic with all the little kids running in and out of their 18-person tents, their dad trying to drunkenly learn how to chop wood at 2am, and screeching campfire "sing" alongs. Then there's Wheeler's for those who have always wanted to get kicked out of somewhere. |
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Hire a professionally trained/certified climbing guide/instructor for a day or 2 and get totally dialed in building anchors. You will gain great info that will last you the rest of your life. |
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Stay at Green Valley. Right off of hwy 12 next to DLSP. Donna and her husband have a HUGE project to make their private land into a much larger campground for the community. 10 bucks per night and there are plenty of sites that are always open. |
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Thanks a ton for the wealth of information. I'd definitely do all of this. I ended up making a spur-of-the-moment trip to South Dakota instead. Will head up to DL soon though. |
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Craig T wrote: Then there's Wheeler's for those who have always wanted to get kicked out of somewhere.No need to diss Wheeler's. Mark is a retired climber who has always been good to climbers (and been known to indulge in a little devil's weed)and is the only campground with excellent bouldering on the property. But, yeah, if your intention is to party all night and make a lot of noise, then don't go to Wheeler's. |
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Ed Wright wrote: No need to diss Wheeler's. Mark is a retired climber who has always been good to climbers (and been known to indulge in a little devil's weed)and is the only campground with excellent bouldering on the property. But, yeah, if your intention is to party all night and make a lot of noise, then don't go to Wheeler's.Family camping,cook out, playing a 12 string guitar, softly singing around the campfire, yup, that got us kicked out of Wheelers long ago. Never again go there. See Donna at Green Valley for sure. It's not cheap for a group of 4 or 5 at 10 bucks per head, but quiet and lovely place where no reservation is needed to drop in and camp. As for the climbing, much of the classic climbing along the East Ramparts is clearly anchored by slings off boulders and trees. Few nuts needed for anchor set ups. Usually empty on weekdays all this summer. Tons of routes to choose from every day. |
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EB wrote:Hire a professionally trained/certified climbing guide/instructor for a day or 2 and get totally dialed in building anchors. You will gain great info that will last you the rest of your life. Every week I see made up bullshit anchors that take people an hour to set up....don't be that person. The lake is awesome enjoy!I agree, give us try. PlayWildWI.com PS- Stay away from webbing...much better ways to set anchors are available.... Thanks |