Slab Daddy beta

I recently stumbled onto this route on the web and it looks awesome. Really really want to do it, so need beta:

Does anyone have a topo for it?

When is the best time to climb it?

What is the nearest town?

Are there hotels to stay?

How hard is the approach?

How safely is it bolted - are we talking bolts every 10 feet or bolts every 30 feet?

The aid section, is it impossible to free climb or could it be F7a boulder problem or maybe 8a free climbing?

Is it graded soft/stiff - if my girl climbs 6b sport, would she be able to follow the pitches?

It is mixed gear and bolts - do I need a full trad rack including big cams? Do I need a haul bag?

Is there a walk off or it's rap decent?

PS. Sorry for bad English, still learning.

It is in Darrington, this is a good time of year for that area.

supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

I've only climbed the first 12 pitches before the route was completed, so I can only comment on them. I hear the upper pitches are more sustained.

Marek Sapkovski wrote:Does anyone have a topo for it?

There's one on the link the btustison put up.

Marek Sapkovski wrote:When is the best time to climb it?

Definitely the summer or fall, depending on the weather. Summers can be hot on the granite there, although doable. There tends to be a lot of snow and cornices on the summit ridge early in the season. You want to make sure that has all come down before you jump on the wall. The snow at the base of the route also lingers late into summer and it can make it difficult to get on the first pitch.

Marek Sapkovski wrote:What is the nearest town? Are there hotels to stay?

Darrington, although I'd rather just drive the 1-1/2 hours from Seattle.

Marek Sapkovski wrote:How hard is the approach?

Not too bad if you do it right. It's a flat road for a bit, then across the stream (very cold) and up the hillside to the base.

Marek Sapkovski wrote:How safely is it bolted - are we talking bolts every 10 feet or bolts every 30 feet?

Safely.

Marek Sapkovski wrote:The aid section, is it impossible to free climb or could it be F7a boulder problem or maybe 8a free climbing?

This link says it's been freeclimbed at 5.11.

supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

Marek Sapkovski wrote:Is it graded soft/stiff - if my girl climbs 6b sport, would she be able to follow the pitches?

They felt pretty accurate to me. Can your girl climb slabs?

Marek Sapkovski wrote:It is mixed gear and bolts - do I need a full trad rack including big cams? Do I need a haul bag?

Yes, full trad rack. I wouldn't want to haul though. It's way too low angle to do that. I'd either climb it in a day or bivy halfway up if you thinkn you can't climb it in a day.

Marek Sapkovski wrote:Is there a walk off or it's rap decent? PS. Sorry for bad English, still learning.

Rap descent. You need two ropes to get off.

sqwirll wrote: Definitely the summer or fall, depending on the weather. Summers can be hot on the granite there, although doable. There tends to be a lot of snow and cornices on the summit ridge early in the season. You want to make sure that has all come down before you jump on the wall. The snow at the base of the route also lingers late into summer and it can make it difficult to get on the first pitch.

Oh, too bad - it is not possible for me to make it this fall, so guess it will have to be next summer. Thank you for the info, though!