Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in 3. The Right Wall
|
A Wonderful Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
American Caesar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Aquarius Rising T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Barbarian Rising T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Bootlegger, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Brother from Another Mother S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Brother of Fortune T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Burgermeister, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Consensual Hex T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Cookin’ with Gas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Crescent Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Dark Sky T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Death Spiral T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Donald Duckin It T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Dr. Octagon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
East Coast Fist Bump T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
|
|
East Coast Fist Bump OG Variation T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Flavor of the Day T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Full Steam Ahead T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Harder they Come, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Helicopter Exodus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Jr Bacon Burgermeister T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Kindness T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Labor Day T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Locks of Dread T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Natural Enhancement T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
|
No Feelings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
No Utopia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Over the Moon T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Parting Gift T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Proud Bootlegger T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Proud Father T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Resurrection T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Rice Paddy Ambush T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Smilin' Jay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Snap Happy S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Soldier of Fortune T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Soul Market T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Special Child T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Starry Night T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Sweet Dreams T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
|
|
Tainted Love T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Three Sheets to the Wind T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Trident, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Turn Down, For What? T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
|
|
Vietnam Vacation T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Wasp Whisperer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2012 |
| Page Views: | 3,421 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Sep 23, 2012 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
"Well, there is no utopia." I heard it said many times growing up when my old man wanted to curb my childish idealism or quickly explain the harsher realities of life. I just like saying it these days as I slowly turn into my father and can appreciate his honest nature on a deeper level.
This curvacious pitch shares the start of Natural Enhancement. Beware the in your face starting moves 5.10d, whether you are leading or following because of the large pointed boulder below. I have not heard of anyone taking the sharp end of that thing, but it could happen, so heads up. There have been some very close calls, usually as a result of inattentive or casual belaying.
At 40' look left towards a small sweeping bulge. This marks the entrance into No Utopia and another 75' of rather stellar face climbing which features an awesome thin crimping crux on 1/4" edges. The top 30' is slightly overhanging and fully engaging.
The gear is good and pretty straight forward, though some of it is rather small, and some of it is placed on the run. I placed a ton of wires.
6 Comments