Top Three 5.11 and 5.12 multi-pitch climbs in America?

Having done Freeblast and the West Face of the Captain are good routes, I can say they're good routes, but they don't seem to be mentioned in the same category as things such as The Rostrum or Astroman (which sadly, I have not climbed). The West Face does have terrific variety, good length and, heh, it is the Captain. I found Freeblast fun but not that involving. I'm kind of surprised by all the positive press it gets.

I suppose you could toss Romantic Warrior (.12b) in there. Hard to beat the Needles, though most of the routes aren't over 6 pitches and so wouldn't qualify under the OP's checklist.

To Clay Meier:
What climb is that? Somewhere near Moab I assume but a bit more beta? I am heading out there soon and think I'd like to hop on that!
Cheers

Jon C. Sullivan wrote:To Clay Meier: What climb is that? Somewhere near Moab I assume but a bit more beta? I am heading out there soon and think I'd like to hop on that! Cheers

5.11 JulesVerne-Leenes Dream-Naked Edge link up in Eldorado Canyon CO

Gotta agree with fatdad- West face is really good, but it's no Rostrum/Asroman/ etc

primrose is on Moses.. you must do the original 11+ start.. god-hard it's maybe done in 4-5 pitches now ?

Rostrum, moonlight buttress, astroman.

Fun thread! Along with a lot of the others, my top 3 are Positive Vibrations, Sunspot Dihedral, and the Rostrum.

I agree with camhead. By setting a 6 pitch limit you are eliminating desert towers, which host some of the best and most unique pitches in the US. Fine Jade and N. Face of Castleton are world class in every way. They can be combined in a day so they should at least count together.

I think you should ask for the best three Grade III routes, the three best three Grade IV and V and so on. Then you can include places like the Desert towers, the Needles, The Rockfellow Dome in Cochise, etc. Also, this discussion makes no sense if you can't include Canada.

Another Fab climb..... you can do it in a day.

No aid or FRENCH and its 11b

mountainproject.com/v/the-r…

Also a bit surprised that Silk Road on Calaveras Dome hasn't come up. I haven't done it either, but a few friends have said that it rivals anything in the Valley or the greater Sierra in quality. I have done Wall of the Worlds (.10c, so won't make the list) on Cal Dome, and that thing is phenomenal. Also known as "War of the Walls".

mountainproject.com/v/war-o…

20 kN wrote:Sport or trad. At least six pitches, but doable in a day. No grade VI wall stuff. What are they? So far I am thinking Astroman for 5.11 and Moonlight Buttress for 5.12. What else?

You're going to pick pale fire over primrose?

My top three that I've done would be Don Juan Wall in the needles, Inferred in Moab, and The Grand Wall 5.11 A0.

Wow. That's kinda awesome.

Luke Stefurak wrote:I've mainly climbed on the West Coast so I'd say: Rainbow Wall The Rostrum Positive Vibrations I put togeather a bunch of beta for most of the long routes I've done in the 5.11 and 5.12 range: dreaminvertical.com/2013/02… The blog post has more beta versus quality info but there are links to a ton of trip reports. I think that all of the routes in the post are awesome. Here is a list in "difficulty" order. •Free-rider – 5.13-, El Capitan – Yosemite, CA •Regular NW Face – 5.12, Half Dome – Yosemite, CA •Sheer Lunacy – 5.12+, Zion, UT •Astroman – 5.11+, Washington Column – Yosemite, CA •Original Route – 5.12-, Rainbow Wall Red Rock, NV •Chouinard-Herbert – 5.11+, Sentinel Rock- Yosemite, CA •Hotline – 5.12, Elephant Rock – Yosemite, CA •Tradewinds – 5.12-, Incredible Hulk – High Sierra, CA •Free Blast – 5.11, El Capitan – Yosemite, CA •Astro-Hulk – 5.11, Incredible Hulk – High Sierra, CA •North Face- 5.11+, Rostrum – Yosemite, CA •Cloud Tower – 5.12- Red Rock, NV •Positive Vibrations – 5.11-, Incredible Hulk- High Sierra, CA •Levitation 29 – 5.11+ Red Rock, NV My favorite from last year was The Flying Buttress out on Merriam Peak. Four high quality pitches of 5.11 in the backcountry.

Fine jade is my all time favorite climb

There's lots of good long routes in the Potrero Chico that are easily climbed in a day because they're bolted.

Voodoo Trance, 10 pitches, 11b
Yankee Clipper, 15 pitches, 12c
Thunderkiss, 9 pitches, 12a
3Stone Place, 6 pitches, 11d
Zapatista, 5 pitches, 12b
Devotion, 15 pitches, 11d
Land of the Free, 10 pitches, 12b
El Prisionero del Cielo, 8 pitches, 12a
Timewave Zero, 23 pitches, 12a
Sendero Diablo, 6 pitches, 11c

Would Freeride on Wallface have a place on the list? Maybe someone who has climbed it can chime in.

Oh top three... Perhaps not, but maybe?!

Grand wall finish in dihedrals Squamish
Freeway Squamish
Levitation 29 Red Rocks
North face castleton was fun for a short day

Romantic Warrior for the 5.12

Shune's Buttress for the 11