The Sun Also Rises
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1.9 from 18 votes
Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m) |
FA: | Mike Morin, Amanda Peterson |
Page Views: | 2,395 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | ErikaNW on Aug 18, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
Follow a broken crack system to a ramp - traverse up and under the right-facing headwall on good holds. Where the headwall runs out, step out left and fire up a short, steep section finishing with a short, wide crack (#3 BD cam). Pull the bulge and angle right to a bolted anchor.
This is super enjoyable 5.7 climbing - if you start farming lichen, you are probably off route.
This is super enjoyable 5.7 climbing - if you start farming lichen, you are probably off route.
Location
As of August 2013, this is the 2nd route on the Hemingway Wall (see beta photo). Note this is listed as the 1st route in the Fixed Pin guide.
Protection
Standard rack to #3 BD cam, 2 bolt anchor (rap bolts), 2-ropes to rappel.
Edited per Kirk Miller as of Oct. 25, 2016: now it is equipped with a bolted midway belay/rappel station. The top anchor was upgraded with rappel rings.
Midway fixed anchors were added with the approval of first ascensionist, Mike Morin.
All hardware courtesy of ASCA. Thanks, Kirk!
Edited per Kirk Miller as of Oct. 25, 2016: now it is equipped with a bolted midway belay/rappel station. The top anchor was upgraded with rappel rings.
Midway fixed anchors were added with the approval of first ascensionist, Mike Morin.
All hardware courtesy of ASCA. Thanks, Kirk!
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