any easy trad routes in rock canyon that can be done with a set of nuts?
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hey, all! i want to start getting into trad climbing, but i don't want to spend a thousand on pro until i know i'll get into it. all i have is a set of nuts, so i was wondering if anyone knew any routes that can be done with only that (preferably at or below 5.9). i know i know, weird request, but i figured i'd take a shot in the dark. i've done real mccoy on ed and terrys which starts as a sports lead, but then has a crack up top for a nut. it would nice to find a route where i can place more than once though. |
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The stuff on the north side of the bolt slab could be done with only nuts. If you get a set of hexes you could lead most the trad stuff in rock canyon. I did this for years when I was climbing down there when I first started. The Kitchen can be lead with nuts too. |
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Leading with only passive pro...cool, haven't done that in a while - thanks for the inspiration...heading out now! |
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Here's some info on a prolific climber that should be an inspiration to you, he only uses passive pro- |
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Well if you are already on Ed and terry wall get on flakes. It takes nuts well |
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I was going to suggest Flakes too. Did it before or owned any cams, or knew how to place gear for that matter... |
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There are actually a ton of lines for that. Many of the best ones don't even appear in a guide book. There are some big cracks/chimneys on the Appendage between "Only Whimps TR the Bulge" and "The Bulge". There are a bunch of good cracks on the Meat Wall too. We even placed a few anchors on top of a wall above The Meat Wall (We called it the Upper Meat Wall and did a bunch of cleaning). Explore and have a great time. Just doing whatever looks interesting it part of the fun of trad. Who says it has to be an official "route"? |