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any easy trad routes in rock canyon that can be done with a set of nuts?

Original Post
mirnhoj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

hey, all! i want to start getting into trad climbing, but i don't want to spend a thousand on pro until i know i'll get into it. all i have is a set of nuts, so i was wondering if anyone knew any routes that can be done with only that (preferably at or below 5.9). i know i know, weird request, but i figured i'd take a shot in the dark. i've done real mccoy on ed and terrys which starts as a sports lead, but then has a crack up top for a nut. it would nice to find a route where i can place more than once though.

if anyone is interested in a trad partner and willing to show me the ropes, i'm always looking for someone since it's hard for me to find people who want to do trad.

thanks!

p.s. i've sport led up to 5.10d, but usually find myself climbing around 5.9/5.10a level.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700

The stuff on the north side of the bolt slab could be done with only nuts. If you get a set of hexes you could lead most the trad stuff in rock canyon. I did this for years when I was climbing down there when I first started. The Kitchen can be lead with nuts too.
Dallen

Tommy Layback · · Sheridan, WY · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 85

Leading with only passive pro...cool, haven't done that in a while - thanks for the inspiration...heading out now!

Jonathan S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 2,113

Here's some info on a prolific climber that should be an inspiration to you, he only uses passive pro-

Henry Barber

Camon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

Well if you are already on Ed and terry wall get on flakes. It takes nuts well

Chris Horton · · St. George, UT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 327

I was going to suggest Flakes too. Did it before or owned any cams, or knew how to place gear for that matter...

Christian "crisco" Burrell · · PG, Utah · Joined May 2007 · Points: 1,815

There are actually a ton of lines for that. Many of the best ones don't even appear in a guide book. There are some big cracks/chimneys on the Appendage between "Only Whimps TR the Bulge" and "The Bulge". There are a bunch of good cracks on the Meat Wall too. We even placed a few anchors on top of a wall above The Meat Wall (We called it the Upper Meat Wall and did a bunch of cleaning). Explore and have a great time. Just doing whatever looks interesting it part of the fun of trad. Who says it has to be an official "route"?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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