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Routes in Middle Section
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A Bridge Across Forever (aka The Nose) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Beaver Cleaver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Blowin in the Wind S,TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Breakfast Before Dessert TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3 6A |
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C. W. Hicks Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Camptown Races (variation) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Candyland T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cat's Pajamas T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chameleon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cinnamon Girl T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Classic, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coatimundi / Candyland LInkup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coatimundi Whiteout T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Coke Bottle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Crack Lover's Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crisco Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deep Yogurt T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Action S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Good, the Bad & the Ugly (GBU), The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Green Savior T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gunsmoke T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hassayampa T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Help Me Mr. Wizard T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Exposure Exit T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hotline (aka Hiccup Delux), The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hump Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Karl's Korner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kingpin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Magnolia Thunderpussy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mindbender T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Once Upon a Time T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oogie Boogie Boo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 PG13 |
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Psycho Killer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Rattle n Hum (Coatimundi Whiteout/Candyland Variation) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Reunion T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Said and Done T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shut Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Slammer Jam, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sorcerer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Stoned Jester, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sweet Acidophilus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Ice (variation) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Tom Thumb T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Triple Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twin Cracks T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Waterstreak Delight T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Witblitz T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | FA: David Lovejoy, Dwight Bradley (1970) FFA: Karl Karlstrom, Rusty Baillie, David Lovejoy (1972) |
| Page Views: | 20,146 total · 99/month |
| Shared By: | Larry Coats on Sep 1, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Falcon Closures from February 1st until July 15th
Details
Granite Mountain is closed between February 1st and July 15th for peregrine falcon nesting!
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
More info:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/prescott…
Description
Candyland is the right-hand crack system that climbs to the Great Roof in the middle section of Granite Mountain, and exits the roof to the right.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the right end of a large flake and traverse it back left to the base of the main crack. Follow this crack through increasingly difficult jamming and stemming to the crux flakes near the bolt (5.10), through the overhang and to the belay on three modern bolts (thanks to efforts by Rusty Baillie).
Pitch 2: Clip a draw to the highest bolt and ooze into the severely flaring and insecure chimney above. Fortunately a couple modern microcams (.4's,.5's) fit into pockets in the degraded crack in the back, making the awkward moves above much less scary (back in the day bad #1 stoppers were it!). This short pitch ends at a solid two-bolt belay.
Pitch 3: Climb the obvious corner crack above- widening from thin hands to larger than fists. Belay on the amazing ledge below the Great Roof.
Pitch 4: Stem up the main corner, past a bald spot, to reach the roof, stuff in some small cams, and hand traverse rightwards as fast as your arm strength allows. Continue following the horizontal crack system around the corner to another amazing belay ledge on the main face. Arrange a belay with gear
Pitch 5: Head straight up the beautiful thin fingers to ringlocks crack before turning the roof-flake on the left. Be sure to runner the hand-sized piece under the roof to avoid rope drag on the long pitch above. Follow easier ground up the main crack system, passing a couple of ledgey areas, before gaining the final blank corner and the summit boulder problem. The route ends to the right of a pointed boulder that is the highest point on the entire crag.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the right end of a large flake and traverse it back left to the base of the main crack. Follow this crack through increasingly difficult jamming and stemming to the crux flakes near the bolt (5.10), through the overhang and to the belay on three modern bolts (thanks to efforts by Rusty Baillie).
Pitch 2: Clip a draw to the highest bolt and ooze into the severely flaring and insecure chimney above. Fortunately a couple modern microcams (.4's,.5's) fit into pockets in the degraded crack in the back, making the awkward moves above much less scary (back in the day bad #1 stoppers were it!). This short pitch ends at a solid two-bolt belay.
Pitch 3: Climb the obvious corner crack above- widening from thin hands to larger than fists. Belay on the amazing ledge below the Great Roof.
Pitch 4: Stem up the main corner, past a bald spot, to reach the roof, stuff in some small cams, and hand traverse rightwards as fast as your arm strength allows. Continue following the horizontal crack system around the corner to another amazing belay ledge on the main face. Arrange a belay with gear
Pitch 5: Head straight up the beautiful thin fingers to ringlocks crack before turning the roof-flake on the left. Be sure to runner the hand-sized piece under the roof to avoid rope drag on the long pitch above. Follow easier ground up the main crack system, passing a couple of ledgey areas, before gaining the final blank corner and the summit boulder problem. The route ends to the right of a pointed boulder that is the highest point on the entire crag.
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